We've made it to Taipei.
Wow, a whole 3.5 hours into our trip.
Loc woke up on the wrong side of the crib this morning and has pretty much screamed nonstop until we were halfway across the South China Sea. Nothing is making him happy right now. We've got an almost-4-hour layover here, so I hope he perks up and is in a better mood for the next leg. Otherwise, we might dump him with Red in San Francisco and come on home by ourselves.
Just kidding!
Our airport taxi was 15 minutes late this morning, causing me conniptions, but the driver drove like a maniac and we got to the airport just after another family who left 15 minutes earlier. Our last views of Hanoi were blurs accompanied by horns.
So far, everything's on schedule, so we should be arriving in San Francisco at 4 p.m. on Sunday. Which is weird because it's 4 p.m. on Sunday right now. We lose 12 hours, poof, just like that.
Okay, my bags are unattended outside the Internet room because Ray is off with Loc dealing with a meltdown, so I have to run. See you all very soon.
Showing posts with label on the trip. Show all posts
Showing posts with label on the trip. Show all posts
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Saturday, August 2, 2008
Last night in Hanoi
I'm sitting in Highlands Coffee, eating Vietnamese coffee cheesecake while Ray feeds Loc coconut ice cream.
We've had an exhausting day. I think I finally got the hang of bargaining and got some incredible deals today. We did a couple trips out to the lake and shopping districts, then an afternoon at the pool. Poor Loc is totally off his schedule, but since we're starting a 23-hour trip tomorrow morning, maybe it's for the best.
We were going to try to go to a water puppet show today, but we got to the theatre and the next show was in 90 minutes, and it was just too hot to wait. So, we made our way back to the pool and hung out there.
One thing I haven't mentioned is how we feel like celebrities every time we're out. Not only do we get stared at, but people come up to us constantly and want to touch Loc or hold him. They even kiss him sometimes,and they always talk to him in Vietnamese and are delighted when he responds with a smile. They always ask if he's Vietnamese, and how old is, and where we're from. And then they usually express gratitude for our adopting a Vietnamese child, or they tell us how lucky Loc is and wish us much happiness and good fortune.
This especially happens in restaurants, where we spend a lot of our time. No eye-rolling of "Oh crap, they brought a child in here." Instead, they bend over backwards for us and sometimes even want to play with Loc or hold him while we eat. And the other customers all smile at us and wave. This is not like America. Tonight at this fabulous Vietnamese restaurant Loc was sleeping in his stroller, and I thought the waitstaff was going to wake him up, they kept wanting to touch him and pinch his cheeks.
So head's up, everyone. This is the kind of attention he has come to expect. Please do your best to continue his perception that he's a celebrity.
Ha ha.
Anyways, don't know if I'll write another blog entry in the morning before we leave, but I'll try to check in from the Taipei airport. And then we'll be HOME, and you'll all get to meet this amazing little boy.
Love to all, and see you soon!!
We've had an exhausting day. I think I finally got the hang of bargaining and got some incredible deals today. We did a couple trips out to the lake and shopping districts, then an afternoon at the pool. Poor Loc is totally off his schedule, but since we're starting a 23-hour trip tomorrow morning, maybe it's for the best.
We were going to try to go to a water puppet show today, but we got to the theatre and the next show was in 90 minutes, and it was just too hot to wait. So, we made our way back to the pool and hung out there.
One thing I haven't mentioned is how we feel like celebrities every time we're out. Not only do we get stared at, but people come up to us constantly and want to touch Loc or hold him. They even kiss him sometimes,and they always talk to him in Vietnamese and are delighted when he responds with a smile. They always ask if he's Vietnamese, and how old is, and where we're from. And then they usually express gratitude for our adopting a Vietnamese child, or they tell us how lucky Loc is and wish us much happiness and good fortune.
This especially happens in restaurants, where we spend a lot of our time. No eye-rolling of "Oh crap, they brought a child in here." Instead, they bend over backwards for us and sometimes even want to play with Loc or hold him while we eat. And the other customers all smile at us and wave. This is not like America. Tonight at this fabulous Vietnamese restaurant Loc was sleeping in his stroller, and I thought the waitstaff was going to wake him up, they kept wanting to touch him and pinch his cheeks.
So head's up, everyone. This is the kind of attention he has come to expect. Please do your best to continue his perception that he's a celebrity.
Ha ha.
Anyways, don't know if I'll write another blog entry in the morning before we leave, but I'll try to check in from the Taipei airport. And then we'll be HOME, and you'll all get to meet this amazing little boy.
Love to all, and see you soon!!
Friday, August 1, 2008
Halong till we get back to Hanoi?
Well.
THAT was an adventure.
We made it back to Hanoi yesterday afternoon, in the rain, crammed in a 14-person van with babies on our laps on the bumpiest roads yet. All we wanted when we got back here was room service and a hot shower.
Halong Bay is beautiful. (Ray will try to upload photos later today if we can borrow Dan's laptop; otherwise, we'll post them when we get home.) It really is something to see.
But the trip...I guess it was about what we expected, but we didn't know that "deluxe" included cockroaches.
The ship, or junk, was very quaint but definitely not up to American safety codes, and Loc has really come out of his shell, so I spent the whole trip chasing him around the deck and keeping him from getting too close to the railing.
We set sail on a really hot morning, and after an hour and a half, we disembarked along with dozens of other boats, at one of the rock formations, which has a cave. One of the dads stayed on the boat with sleeping baby Nina, but the rest of us trekked onshore and then started a vertical hike up the side of the rock with babies on our backs in hellacious heat.
The cave was really cool -- better than Luray -- but not well lit on the paths, and slippery, and oh, about 120 degrees inside. We'd be winding our way through these narrow slippery paths into the belly of the cave, making plans to spot each other if someone slipped and dropped a baby. But amazing rock formations.
When we descended back to the shoreline, it was "high tide," they told us, so we had to wade through knee-deep water on the little boardwalk back to the boat. And the junks were so crammed in to the dock area that you had to duck under bows. As we were wading and dealing with wriggling kids, one boat crashed right through the dock railing in front of us. Then we had a climb a ladder made out of pipe to get back on the boat.
It was hilarious. In its own screwed-up way.
Then we tooled around the bay some more with stops for kayaking (Ray did it) and swimming (no one did, given the amount of diesel dumped in the bay by all these junks, the boat traffic, and the garbage).
The food on board was okay but not great, the crew not that interested in giving us a tour, but the cabins were actually pretty roomy -- two twin beds and plenty of room to move around. And largish private bathrooms with showers.
Oh, except that I'm forgetting the cockroaches. Yes, in the bed, on the walls, generally enjoying their cruise on Halong Bay as well. One family's room was a little more infested than the others', which led to The Best Line of the Trip.
When Lu complained to one of the crew about the roaches in her room and how did they expect her to sleep in there with her baby, the crewman said, "Oh, don't worry Madame. As soon as the AC comes on and we cut the engines, they run right to the kitchen."
Nice.
So, that family passed the night wearing bandanas over their ears, socks tucked into pants, 3 or 4 layers, and a tent made out of a sheet. And all the lights on. We only saw a few roaches in our room and were so exhausted we didn't worry about it. I was more worried about Loc getting out of the room in the middle of the night, so despite double-bolting and chain locking the door, I slept with my hand around Houdini's ankle.
The next day, it rained all day, which gave the rock formations a mystical, ethereal quality, like we were in some enchanted Tolkien land. I'm joking, of course. It was pretty miserable on board, we could only look out windows, the crew was watching TV instead of giving us a tour, breakfast was inedible (although I didn't see any roaches in my "omelet"). All we wanted to do was get back to Hanoi at that point.
We got back to Halong Harbor, had to walk a few blocks in the rain with all of our luggage
to a restaurant for lunch -- this time, really crappy tourist food -- then crammed in the van with 8 other people for the three-hour ride back to Hanoi.
We were all glad we did this excursion -- roaches and all, because it makes for a good story and it really was something to see -- but the Somerset with its Soviet-era decorating style was looking pretty good.
Also, while Loc was generally well-behaved if a bit energetic for a boat, there was an incident with him. He bit me, twice. One just looks like a hickey on my shoulder, but the other one actually broke the skin. I don't know what to make of this -- he wasn't angry or upset. He was just rough-housing with me -- jumping up in my arms and bonking his head against me, which he loves to do, and then he just CHOMPED.
This has led to his new nickname, Chucky, among our group.
The second time he did it, in the van on the way back, I yelled, "No," and pushed him off of me, which led to a really amazing tantrum with huge tears and screams that thankfully had everyone in the van laughing at the theatrics. So we'll see if he got the message.
Today's our last day in Hanoi, then we leave early tomorrow for the airport. Finally!! I can't wait to get on that plane to come home. Today we're going to visit the Hanoi Hilton to see John McCain's cell, and we're going to the Old Quarter for some last-minute souvenir shopping.
I can't believe we're finally ready to leave Vietnam. It has truly been amazing. This blog doesn't cover half of the sights and things we've experienced. We've been on sensory overload since we touched down in Saigon two weeks ago.
Now I'm off to meet my boys for breakfast, then out into the traffic and noise of Hanoi.
THAT was an adventure.
We made it back to Hanoi yesterday afternoon, in the rain, crammed in a 14-person van with babies on our laps on the bumpiest roads yet. All we wanted when we got back here was room service and a hot shower.
Halong Bay is beautiful. (Ray will try to upload photos later today if we can borrow Dan's laptop; otherwise, we'll post them when we get home.) It really is something to see.
But the trip...I guess it was about what we expected, but we didn't know that "deluxe" included cockroaches.
The ship, or junk, was very quaint but definitely not up to American safety codes, and Loc has really come out of his shell, so I spent the whole trip chasing him around the deck and keeping him from getting too close to the railing.
We set sail on a really hot morning, and after an hour and a half, we disembarked along with dozens of other boats, at one of the rock formations, which has a cave. One of the dads stayed on the boat with sleeping baby Nina, but the rest of us trekked onshore and then started a vertical hike up the side of the rock with babies on our backs in hellacious heat.
The cave was really cool -- better than Luray -- but not well lit on the paths, and slippery, and oh, about 120 degrees inside. We'd be winding our way through these narrow slippery paths into the belly of the cave, making plans to spot each other if someone slipped and dropped a baby. But amazing rock formations.
When we descended back to the shoreline, it was "high tide," they told us, so we had to wade through knee-deep water on the little boardwalk back to the boat. And the junks were so crammed in to the dock area that you had to duck under bows. As we were wading and dealing with wriggling kids, one boat crashed right through the dock railing in front of us. Then we had a climb a ladder made out of pipe to get back on the boat.
It was hilarious. In its own screwed-up way.
Then we tooled around the bay some more with stops for kayaking (Ray did it) and swimming (no one did, given the amount of diesel dumped in the bay by all these junks, the boat traffic, and the garbage).
The food on board was okay but not great, the crew not that interested in giving us a tour, but the cabins were actually pretty roomy -- two twin beds and plenty of room to move around. And largish private bathrooms with showers.
Oh, except that I'm forgetting the cockroaches. Yes, in the bed, on the walls, generally enjoying their cruise on Halong Bay as well. One family's room was a little more infested than the others', which led to The Best Line of the Trip.
When Lu complained to one of the crew about the roaches in her room and how did they expect her to sleep in there with her baby, the crewman said, "Oh, don't worry Madame. As soon as the AC comes on and we cut the engines, they run right to the kitchen."
Nice.
So, that family passed the night wearing bandanas over their ears, socks tucked into pants, 3 or 4 layers, and a tent made out of a sheet. And all the lights on. We only saw a few roaches in our room and were so exhausted we didn't worry about it. I was more worried about Loc getting out of the room in the middle of the night, so despite double-bolting and chain locking the door, I slept with my hand around Houdini's ankle.
The next day, it rained all day, which gave the rock formations a mystical, ethereal quality, like we were in some enchanted Tolkien land. I'm joking, of course. It was pretty miserable on board, we could only look out windows, the crew was watching TV instead of giving us a tour, breakfast was inedible (although I didn't see any roaches in my "omelet"). All we wanted to do was get back to Hanoi at that point.
We got back to Halong Harbor, had to walk a few blocks in the rain with all of our luggage
to a restaurant for lunch -- this time, really crappy tourist food -- then crammed in the van with 8 other people for the three-hour ride back to Hanoi.
We were all glad we did this excursion -- roaches and all, because it makes for a good story and it really was something to see -- but the Somerset with its Soviet-era decorating style was looking pretty good.
Also, while Loc was generally well-behaved if a bit energetic for a boat, there was an incident with him. He bit me, twice. One just looks like a hickey on my shoulder, but the other one actually broke the skin. I don't know what to make of this -- he wasn't angry or upset. He was just rough-housing with me -- jumping up in my arms and bonking his head against me, which he loves to do, and then he just CHOMPED.
This has led to his new nickname, Chucky, among our group.
The second time he did it, in the van on the way back, I yelled, "No," and pushed him off of me, which led to a really amazing tantrum with huge tears and screams that thankfully had everyone in the van laughing at the theatrics. So we'll see if he got the message.
Today's our last day in Hanoi, then we leave early tomorrow for the airport. Finally!! I can't wait to get on that plane to come home. Today we're going to visit the Hanoi Hilton to see John McCain's cell, and we're going to the Old Quarter for some last-minute souvenir shopping.
I can't believe we're finally ready to leave Vietnam. It has truly been amazing. This blog doesn't cover half of the sights and things we've experienced. We've been on sensory overload since we touched down in Saigon two weeks ago.
Now I'm off to meet my boys for breakfast, then out into the traffic and noise of Hanoi.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Off to Halong Bay
Six adults, two infants, and a toddler on a couple-hour bus ride and then a boat overnight. Are we crazy?
We just couldn't face another day at the hotel and needed a change of scenery in one of the most amazing sites on the planet, according to UNESCO. Look up Halong Bay on Wikipedia, or see our photos later.
Love to all.
We just couldn't face another day at the hotel and needed a change of scenery in one of the most amazing sites on the planet, according to UNESCO. Look up Halong Bay on Wikipedia, or see our photos later.
Love to all.
Those Amazing Race contestants make it look so easy
Aaaargh.
We got Loc's visa this morning, no problem, and then 5 of us parents and Loc and Baby Sophie rushed off to the EVA Airlines office to beg to get on a flight today or tomorrow.
No dice. We're stuck with our Sunday flight. They have nothing available out of Taiwan to the US except one seat to Los Angeles on Friday, and the 5 of us didn't want to fight over who got that. (Ha ha.) How do those people on "The Amazing Race" jet around the globe at a moment's notice? Is "reality tv" not really real? Shocking.
We really want to come home ASAP, not just because we're anxious to get our lives back to normal and to see everyone, but because it's too hot to do much here and the hotel is not exactly cheap.
Troy and Christine are leaving for Saigon this afternoon for the rest of the trip (she has family there), so the 6 remaining 'rents are discussing embarking on a tour of Halong Bay tomorrow, with an overnight on a boat. Everyone recommends seeing this place, and an overnight tour and cruise is cheaper than the hotel. It should be an adventure -- I'm just not sure if it's a trip to crazytown. Loc was up at 4 this morning and screamed his head off until 8. I think he has a tooth coming in and he's not happy about it. After I blog this, I'm heading to the grocery store for some Johnnie Walker to put on his gums.
KIDDING!!! I'll wait for Aunt Melinda to buy him his first shot.
Anyways, if we do Halong Bay I'll be out of touch for a couple days, but we should get some amazing photos of it. Unless we're kicked off the boat for screaming children.
This afternoon, I'm going shopping with the other moms for more silks. If I can't go home, I may as well shop, right? Loc and Ray are going to hang out at the pool.
Wish I had better news about the flights. Sunday feels like a long ways off. Thanks to everyone for your comments -- you're keeping us going right now.
We got Loc's visa this morning, no problem, and then 5 of us parents and Loc and Baby Sophie rushed off to the EVA Airlines office to beg to get on a flight today or tomorrow.
No dice. We're stuck with our Sunday flight. They have nothing available out of Taiwan to the US except one seat to Los Angeles on Friday, and the 5 of us didn't want to fight over who got that. (Ha ha.) How do those people on "The Amazing Race" jet around the globe at a moment's notice? Is "reality tv" not really real? Shocking.
We really want to come home ASAP, not just because we're anxious to get our lives back to normal and to see everyone, but because it's too hot to do much here and the hotel is not exactly cheap.
Troy and Christine are leaving for Saigon this afternoon for the rest of the trip (she has family there), so the 6 remaining 'rents are discussing embarking on a tour of Halong Bay tomorrow, with an overnight on a boat. Everyone recommends seeing this place, and an overnight tour and cruise is cheaper than the hotel. It should be an adventure -- I'm just not sure if it's a trip to crazytown. Loc was up at 4 this morning and screamed his head off until 8. I think he has a tooth coming in and he's not happy about it. After I blog this, I'm heading to the grocery store for some Johnnie Walker to put on his gums.
KIDDING!!! I'll wait for Aunt Melinda to buy him his first shot.
Anyways, if we do Halong Bay I'll be out of touch for a couple days, but we should get some amazing photos of it. Unless we're kicked off the boat for screaming children.
This afternoon, I'm going shopping with the other moms for more silks. If I can't go home, I may as well shop, right? Loc and Ray are going to hang out at the pool.
Wish I had better news about the flights. Sunday feels like a long ways off. Thanks to everyone for your comments -- you're keeping us going right now.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Almost there
The Embassy interview went well. It wasn't really an interview, like they used to do, thanks to the new procedures. All I had to do was swear that everything in the visa application was true to the best of my knowledge. Hey, no problem!
We were there for a long time, however. They told us we could get the visas the same day, at 4 p.m., so we elected to hang out and wait for them. Over an hour in a government office waiting area with a toddler... ugh. He was moderately good, with one small meltdown. Unfortunately, the visas weren't ready at 4. They told us maybe 5 p.m., so Thao sent us back to the hotel and waited for us. 5 p.m., no visas. They are promising by 9 a.m. tomorrow.
What does that mean? That possibly means that by 9 a.m. we're done and free to leave Vietnam. Unfortunately, we might not be able to leave early. There was a typhoon in Taiwan on Monday, and it resulted in all flights being canceled out of Taipei. Our travel agent is warning that he might not be able to change our tickets because the Taiwanese airline we're on is so backlogged right now.
Most of us are all a little depressed about this. We're all so ready to come home. So, we're crossing our fingers and seeing what can be done to get us home early, but we really can't give the travel agent the go-ahead to find us flights until we have the kids' visas in hand tomorrow.
But as you saw from Ray's posts, today was a good day. Loc was just great today. Happy kid with only the normal toddler tantrums every now and then. Plus, MAJOR development. When Ray tried to give him his bottle this morning, he screamed and wriggled away and cried for "Meh! Meh!" (His version of Mommy -- a Vietnamese/English hybrid). He did it a few more times today, calling for "Meh" when he wanted something. Pretty cool, huh? And I was so worried about bonding.
Also, he understands a ton of Vietnamese and very little English, but he still surprises us. This evening he instigated a peek-a-boo game with the living room curtains. He'd hide behind then, and we'd wonder aloud where he was, and he would burst out of them and come running at us. It was simply amazing -- just from the tone of our voices, I guess, he figured out how to play the game. So, if we are stuck here till Sunday, at least we have something fun to do.
We were there for a long time, however. They told us we could get the visas the same day, at 4 p.m., so we elected to hang out and wait for them. Over an hour in a government office waiting area with a toddler... ugh. He was moderately good, with one small meltdown. Unfortunately, the visas weren't ready at 4. They told us maybe 5 p.m., so Thao sent us back to the hotel and waited for us. 5 p.m., no visas. They are promising by 9 a.m. tomorrow.
What does that mean? That possibly means that by 9 a.m. we're done and free to leave Vietnam. Unfortunately, we might not be able to leave early. There was a typhoon in Taiwan on Monday, and it resulted in all flights being canceled out of Taipei. Our travel agent is warning that he might not be able to change our tickets because the Taiwanese airline we're on is so backlogged right now.
Most of us are all a little depressed about this. We're all so ready to come home. So, we're crossing our fingers and seeing what can be done to get us home early, but we really can't give the travel agent the go-ahead to find us flights until we have the kids' visas in hand tomorrow.
But as you saw from Ray's posts, today was a good day. Loc was just great today. Happy kid with only the normal toddler tantrums every now and then. Plus, MAJOR development. When Ray tried to give him his bottle this morning, he screamed and wriggled away and cried for "Meh! Meh!" (His version of Mommy -- a Vietnamese/English hybrid). He did it a few more times today, calling for "Meh" when he wanted something. Pretty cool, huh? And I was so worried about bonding.
Also, he understands a ton of Vietnamese and very little English, but he still surprises us. This evening he instigated a peek-a-boo game with the living room curtains. He'd hide behind then, and we'd wonder aloud where he was, and he would burst out of them and come running at us. It was simply amazing -- just from the tone of our voices, I guess, he figured out how to play the game. So, if we are stuck here till Sunday, at least we have something fun to do.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Shopping Day
We're beat. We had a long day in Hanoi, where it's HOT. And we had a long morning with a very unhappy boy who woke up in yet another room and another city. He had just gotten to the point where he didn't scream in our room in Saigon, and we pulled another switcheroo on him. So, last night was loooong trying to get him to sleep, and then this morning was rough. He was generally unhappy and screamed for a couple hours and was back to needing all his comfort items with him.
But he rallied for our shopping trip with some of the other moms and Thao, who did our bargaining for us. And boy did we get bargains, like silk scarves for 3 bucks. Gorgeous stuff here.
Loc stayed in the Hip Hammock the whole shopping trip, from shop to shop, and was very chill and flirted with all the shopgirls. Maybe that's why we got bargains.
After a nice long nap for him and Dad, we headed out to walk around the lake. Way too hot, but it was interesting. Hanoi is so different from Saigon, so much like France in its architecture.
We had dinner at a Thai place, and now it's off to bed. Loc needs to make a good impression at his Embassy interview tomorrow. Wish us luck -- this is the last step in his paperwork.
But he rallied for our shopping trip with some of the other moms and Thao, who did our bargaining for us. And boy did we get bargains, like silk scarves for 3 bucks. Gorgeous stuff here.
Loc stayed in the Hip Hammock the whole shopping trip, from shop to shop, and was very chill and flirted with all the shopgirls. Maybe that's why we got bargains.
After a nice long nap for him and Dad, we headed out to walk around the lake. Way too hot, but it was interesting. Hanoi is so different from Saigon, so much like France in its architecture.
We had dinner at a Thai place, and now it's off to bed. Loc needs to make a good impression at his Embassy interview tomorrow. Wish us luck -- this is the last step in his paperwork.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
In Hanoi
We made it to Hanoi today and are settled in the Somerset Grand. A far different set-up from the Saigon hotel. We have a two-bedroom, two-bath apartment with a kitchen and washer and dryer. Breakfast is included in the Somerset restaurant, but we're going to miss our Club Lounge with free Internet (it's 3 bucks for 30 minutes here, WTF?), free booze (seriously, WTF???), free snacks all day long, and those views of the Saigon River Loc found so compelling.
Loc was amazing on the flight today. He settled against me and went right to sleep as soon as we started to take off, and woke up when we landed.
In fact, today has been one long day of, what happened to the scared, withdrawn and fussy kid we adopted? This new boy is absolutely delightful, giggling all the time, playing games with us, generally being charming, eating up a storm, and even splashing in the pool today and laughing his head off.
We had a real adventure when we got here. We joined Thao, Christine, and Troy for lunch for Vietnamese food. We went to this place where they were cooking food and washing dishes basically on the street. We climbed a flight of narrow stairs to the dining room, where the food was already on the table. You just sat down and started eating. No refrigeration except for the beers. It was grilled beef and pork in a bowl of sauce, sliced-up spring rolls, a plate of noodles, pickled papaya, and a plate of lettuce and mint. You're supposed to mix everything together and dig in. We avoided the uncooked stuff and hoped for the best. So far, so good. It was delicious, but about as authentic as I want to get.
Hanoi is totally different from Saigon. Much less hectic and less crowded, and the buildings are all older and more French colonial looking. It's hotter and dusty here. Where we are has some new construction, but not like Saigon. It definitely has that post-colonial look.
Okay, the space key on this computer isn't working, so I'll say goodnight. We have a free day tomorrow while Thao does paperwork, so we're going shopping. Then another Big Day on Tuesday, when I have the US Embassy interview and hopefully get the boy's visa. As soon as I get that, we can come home, so stay tuned!!
Loc was amazing on the flight today. He settled against me and went right to sleep as soon as we started to take off, and woke up when we landed.
In fact, today has been one long day of, what happened to the scared, withdrawn and fussy kid we adopted? This new boy is absolutely delightful, giggling all the time, playing games with us, generally being charming, eating up a storm, and even splashing in the pool today and laughing his head off.
We had a real adventure when we got here. We joined Thao, Christine, and Troy for lunch for Vietnamese food. We went to this place where they were cooking food and washing dishes basically on the street. We climbed a flight of narrow stairs to the dining room, where the food was already on the table. You just sat down and started eating. No refrigeration except for the beers. It was grilled beef and pork in a bowl of sauce, sliced-up spring rolls, a plate of noodles, pickled papaya, and a plate of lettuce and mint. You're supposed to mix everything together and dig in. We avoided the uncooked stuff and hoped for the best. So far, so good. It was delicious, but about as authentic as I want to get.
Hanoi is totally different from Saigon. Much less hectic and less crowded, and the buildings are all older and more French colonial looking. It's hotter and dusty here. Where we are has some new construction, but not like Saigon. It definitely has that post-colonial look.
Okay, the space key on this computer isn't working, so I'll say goodnight. We have a free day tomorrow while Thao does paperwork, so we're going shopping. Then another Big Day on Tuesday, when I have the US Embassy interview and hopefully get the boy's visa. As soon as I get that, we can come home, so stay tuned!!
Friday, July 25, 2008
Bath Time
Loc had his first bath in the tub today, with Dad. Sorry to disappoint you, but there are no photos of this event.
He didn't much like it, but at least he's a little fresher now. We're meeting Titi's friends Trang and Nguyet for lunch today, and we wanted Loc to be presentable.
Every day he's getting more and more comfortable with us. He had a rocky night, but I think it was because of the Vietnamese sausages he ate for dinner. His little burps could clear a room, they were practically fire-breathing. This morning he's doing well and practicing his fork skills and just generally being adorable.
So, we have a big adventure out today for lunch, and then maybe the market later on this evening.
Oops, here he comes, gotta run.
He didn't much like it, but at least he's a little fresher now. We're meeting Titi's friends Trang and Nguyet for lunch today, and we wanted Loc to be presentable.
Every day he's getting more and more comfortable with us. He had a rocky night, but I think it was because of the Vietnamese sausages he ate for dinner. His little burps could clear a room, they were practically fire-breathing. This morning he's doing well and practicing his fork skills and just generally being adorable.
So, we have a big adventure out today for lunch, and then maybe the market later on this evening.
Oops, here he comes, gotta run.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Boom!
Loc showed us a new trick at 5:30 this morning -- climbing out of his crib. We woke up to a crash and a wail and found him wedged between the sofa and the crib. Holy crap.
So, he's sleeping on a mattress on the floor from now on. I'm so glad we didn't invest in a crib at home and went straight to a bed, although I think we need a railing for it since he thrashes around a bit.
It's 9 a.m. in Saigon and we're off to a good start. He had TWO bowls of chicken congee this morning, with no chipmunkery going on. We're both completely relieved that his appetite is finally coming back and he's learning that the hotel breakfast buffet really is "all you can eat." He also loves these delicious Vietnamese cherries that will probably be impossible to find back home.
The fruit here is unreal. I thought I hated papaya. I had just never had a truly ripe one before. And don't get me started again on the dragonfruit -- I can't eat enough of it. Dragonfruit looks like a white kiwi when it's peeled, but in its natural state it's this large pink spiky thing, almost like a giant pink artichoke. We got one in a welcome basket from the hotel yesterday and were like, WTF do we do with this? And then Loc picked it up and peeled it! Who knew?! He even used his teeth on the tough parts to the peel. He can also peel a banana in a flash. He's very resourceful.
I guess it's the institutional care. We can't get him to drink out of a sippy cup, but he can hold a 16-oz bottle of Aquafina and drink from it like he's been doing it since birth.
Okay, more later -- now we're off to the pool to see if he likes that better the second time.
So, he's sleeping on a mattress on the floor from now on. I'm so glad we didn't invest in a crib at home and went straight to a bed, although I think we need a railing for it since he thrashes around a bit.
It's 9 a.m. in Saigon and we're off to a good start. He had TWO bowls of chicken congee this morning, with no chipmunkery going on. We're both completely relieved that his appetite is finally coming back and he's learning that the hotel breakfast buffet really is "all you can eat." He also loves these delicious Vietnamese cherries that will probably be impossible to find back home.
The fruit here is unreal. I thought I hated papaya. I had just never had a truly ripe one before. And don't get me started again on the dragonfruit -- I can't eat enough of it. Dragonfruit looks like a white kiwi when it's peeled, but in its natural state it's this large pink spiky thing, almost like a giant pink artichoke. We got one in a welcome basket from the hotel yesterday and were like, WTF do we do with this? And then Loc picked it up and peeled it! Who knew?! He even used his teeth on the tough parts to the peel. He can also peel a banana in a flash. He's very resourceful.
I guess it's the institutional care. We can't get him to drink out of a sippy cup, but he can hold a 16-oz bottle of Aquafina and drink from it like he's been doing it since birth.
Okay, more later -- now we're off to the pool to see if he likes that better the second time.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
I adopted a chipmunk
First off, sorry for being out of touch yesterday and today. It was...intense.
Things are going well and getting better all the time. Today, we got some smiles and laughs out of Loc, and he'll now run to my open arms and jump into them.
Other highlights of today: his first ice cream cone, and listening in on a SKYPE call with Grandma and Grandad. He waved at them on the Webcam (only one way -- we don't have one, so they could only hear us.) My heart just overflowed to see him smiling at his new grandparents.
But yesterday was really tough on the little guy. The van got here around 10 with the nannies and the babies, and then Loc's nanny, Dao, and I went to our room and she tried to show me some basics of taking care of him (gestures only since we don't share a language). I also got an "instruction manual," with his feeding times and what he likes to eat.
He was very distressed and unhappy all day. At around 2, we went downtown for the Giving & Receiving ceremony. It was brief, thankfully, because the government office building has no AC, and we were on the third floor. None of the kids cried; all of the parents did. We were blubbering as the provincial official said her official words and read our adoption decrees. I think I was "People's Decision Number 1891."
We all posed for photos afterwards with the statue of Uncle Ho that dominated the room. Then it was back here for the nannies to say goodbye. Very emotional, very sad. The women clearly love these children.
Loc spent the rest of the day very distressed and alternating between whimpering and crying. We got him walking around the grounds of the hotel, and that seemed to both calm him and get him tired. He wouldn't eat dinner, however, but finally conked out at 7. So did we -- it was an exhausting day. He woke up a little later with a full-blown meltdown due to some bug bites itching him. The kids are all covered with bug bites -- big holes in the screens at the orphanage. We got him calmed down and back to sleep.
He woke right on schedule at midnight for his bottle, and let me take him out of his crib and give it to him with no fuss, then went right back to sleep till 7 this morning.
This morning was a little tough. He woke up disoriented and unhappy, but we did manage to get some breakfast (fish congee and fruit) into him, although he hoarded the fruit in his cheeks.
Then, like a switch turning on, later this morning he started warming to us. We found out he's ticklish, and had a great time sitting at the beach with him. Big news: He has a TON of teeth. I hadn't seen them because he hadn't smiled or made a sound since we got him, but when he was cackling this morning, there they were, a whole set of choppers.
Lunch was a challenge again. I fed him fried rice, which he seemed to be scarfing down, but when I went to change him an hour and a half later, he almost choked. He had stored it all in his cheeks. Likewise a fruit snack later today -- it was all in his cheeks.
So, we've got an institutional care issue to deal with. He's hoarding food in his cheeks, which is not uncommon for kids from orphanages. It's a coping mechanism of getting food when it's available because of insecurity about when there will be more. It breaks my heart to see him do this. He's like a little chimpmunk.
We fed him slower at dinner and tried to make sure he actually swallowed something, and it looks like he did. We'll work through this; he'll learn there will be plenty of food around. Just wait till he comes to his first Smith Family get-together. Any anxiety about running out of food will be gone with the wind.
So, it's been an emotional 24 or so hours. The G&R really was something -- to have that official ceremony, where I signed my name in "the big book" felt so good after all this waiting. And the hand-off with the nannies -- I can't describe how heart-breaking it was. I have to remind myself that right now, this is still a loss for Loc. He's starting to maybe figure out what he's gained, but yesterday was not a happy day for him.
He really is doing so much better today. He loves to be picked up and held, which is great. I'm showering him with sniffs and kisses and holding him close. I think we're making some progress.
He's such a cute little thing, my chipmunk boy.
Things are going well and getting better all the time. Today, we got some smiles and laughs out of Loc, and he'll now run to my open arms and jump into them.
Other highlights of today: his first ice cream cone, and listening in on a SKYPE call with Grandma and Grandad. He waved at them on the Webcam (only one way -- we don't have one, so they could only hear us.) My heart just overflowed to see him smiling at his new grandparents.
But yesterday was really tough on the little guy. The van got here around 10 with the nannies and the babies, and then Loc's nanny, Dao, and I went to our room and she tried to show me some basics of taking care of him (gestures only since we don't share a language). I also got an "instruction manual," with his feeding times and what he likes to eat.
He was very distressed and unhappy all day. At around 2, we went downtown for the Giving & Receiving ceremony. It was brief, thankfully, because the government office building has no AC, and we were on the third floor. None of the kids cried; all of the parents did. We were blubbering as the provincial official said her official words and read our adoption decrees. I think I was "People's Decision Number 1891."
We all posed for photos afterwards with the statue of Uncle Ho that dominated the room. Then it was back here for the nannies to say goodbye. Very emotional, very sad. The women clearly love these children.
Loc spent the rest of the day very distressed and alternating between whimpering and crying. We got him walking around the grounds of the hotel, and that seemed to both calm him and get him tired. He wouldn't eat dinner, however, but finally conked out at 7. So did we -- it was an exhausting day. He woke up a little later with a full-blown meltdown due to some bug bites itching him. The kids are all covered with bug bites -- big holes in the screens at the orphanage. We got him calmed down and back to sleep.
He woke right on schedule at midnight for his bottle, and let me take him out of his crib and give it to him with no fuss, then went right back to sleep till 7 this morning.
This morning was a little tough. He woke up disoriented and unhappy, but we did manage to get some breakfast (fish congee and fruit) into him, although he hoarded the fruit in his cheeks.
Then, like a switch turning on, later this morning he started warming to us. We found out he's ticklish, and had a great time sitting at the beach with him. Big news: He has a TON of teeth. I hadn't seen them because he hadn't smiled or made a sound since we got him, but when he was cackling this morning, there they were, a whole set of choppers.
Lunch was a challenge again. I fed him fried rice, which he seemed to be scarfing down, but when I went to change him an hour and a half later, he almost choked. He had stored it all in his cheeks. Likewise a fruit snack later today -- it was all in his cheeks.
So, we've got an institutional care issue to deal with. He's hoarding food in his cheeks, which is not uncommon for kids from orphanages. It's a coping mechanism of getting food when it's available because of insecurity about when there will be more. It breaks my heart to see him do this. He's like a little chimpmunk.
We fed him slower at dinner and tried to make sure he actually swallowed something, and it looks like he did. We'll work through this; he'll learn there will be plenty of food around. Just wait till he comes to his first Smith Family get-together. Any anxiety about running out of food will be gone with the wind.
So, it's been an emotional 24 or so hours. The G&R really was something -- to have that official ceremony, where I signed my name in "the big book" felt so good after all this waiting. And the hand-off with the nannies -- I can't describe how heart-breaking it was. I have to remind myself that right now, this is still a loss for Loc. He's starting to maybe figure out what he's gained, but yesterday was not a happy day for him.
He really is doing so much better today. He loves to be picked up and held, which is great. I'm showering him with sniffs and kisses and holding him close. I think we're making some progress.
He's such a cute little thing, my chipmunk boy.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Countdown to G&R
It's 9:15 a.m. in Vietnam, and the van will be here at 11 with the nannies and the babies. They'll spend a little time with us showing us how to take care of our new children. This is especially important for the little babies who are on formula that no one knows the name of yet, but I've been assured that Loc will eat "everything." I'm hoping his nanny will get me up-to-speed on bedtime and naptime as well as the best ways to comfort him. Yesterday, she was patting his leg, and that seemed to help.
Thao will take the nannies to lunch here at the hotel while we get the kids in their fancy duds for the Giving & Receiving Ceremony. Then we all pile in the van and go down the street to the government office. The G&R is at 2. Then it's back to the hotel for the nannies to say good-bye to the kids. They have taken such great care of our little ones. It's going to be an emotional afternoon.
I want to thank everyone who has commented on the blog -- we love reading your comments and having contact with our friends and family back home. I realized, however, that some of you were having trouble commenting, so I went in and changed the settings to make it easier. So keep the comments coming!
We'll try to post G&R photos this evening (tomorrow morning for you guys).
Thao will take the nannies to lunch here at the hotel while we get the kids in their fancy duds for the Giving & Receiving Ceremony. Then we all pile in the van and go down the street to the government office. The G&R is at 2. Then it's back to the hotel for the nannies to say good-bye to the kids. They have taken such great care of our little ones. It's going to be an emotional afternoon.
I want to thank everyone who has commented on the blog -- we love reading your comments and having contact with our friends and family back home. I realized, however, that some of you were having trouble commenting, so I went in and changed the settings to make it easier. So keep the comments coming!
We'll try to post G&R photos this evening (tomorrow morning for you guys).
Under the sea
We're just back from dinner. Holy smokes, it was amazing. We went to a seafood restaurant, Cay Bang (omitting the diacritical marks, sorry), hanging over the Pacific in Phan Thiet. All 10 of us, with Thao ordering dish after dish of things that moments before hitting our table had been swimming in open-air tanks in the back of the restaurant.
We're talking steamed shrimp, grilled squid, steamed crabs with tamarind, snails, and oysters, plus fried rice and sauteed water spinach, and round after round of beer. The tab was $18 per person. And we couldn't eat all the food they brought.
A couple things I loved: the salt/pepper/lime juice dip for the shrimp, and the custom of bringing, after the shrimp and crabs, large bowls of lukewarm aromatic tea (with the loose tea still in it) and lemon for you to dunk your hands in after cracking all those shells. Why hasn't Southern Maryland figured this out? My hands smell like I've spent the afternoon at Bath & Bodyworks, not like I've been working in a Crisfield plant.
On the way to the restaurant, we stopped at some local sites -- temple ruins, a working Buddhist temple, and the famous Phan Thiet sand dunes, which Ray says compare with the dunes of northern Indiana, only a different type of sand.
So, tomorrow at 11 a.m. our lives change forever. I hope all three of us are ready. Tomorrow's going to be a busy day, but I hope to post at least something brief to document how it went.
The last few days have been the most amazing of my life. Every moment has been an adventure. But tomorrow is when the real fun starts.
We're talking steamed shrimp, grilled squid, steamed crabs with tamarind, snails, and oysters, plus fried rice and sauteed water spinach, and round after round of beer. The tab was $18 per person. And we couldn't eat all the food they brought.
A couple things I loved: the salt/pepper/lime juice dip for the shrimp, and the custom of bringing, after the shrimp and crabs, large bowls of lukewarm aromatic tea (with the loose tea still in it) and lemon for you to dunk your hands in after cracking all those shells. Why hasn't Southern Maryland figured this out? My hands smell like I've spent the afternoon at Bath & Bodyworks, not like I've been working in a Crisfield plant.
On the way to the restaurant, we stopped at some local sites -- temple ruins, a working Buddhist temple, and the famous Phan Thiet sand dunes, which Ray says compare with the dunes of northern Indiana, only a different type of sand.
So, tomorrow at 11 a.m. our lives change forever. I hope all three of us are ready. Tomorrow's going to be a busy day, but I hope to post at least something brief to document how it went.
The last few days have been the most amazing of my life. Every moment has been an adventure. But tomorrow is when the real fun starts.
Challenging day
Today's visit was a little different. When we got there, Loc was sound asleep in his crib, having his nap. Usually he sleeps till 1:30, but that's when we were leaving, so the nanny woke him up for us. I wasn't so sure this was a good idea, but language barrier and all....
So, I had one cranky, unhappy baby on my hands. I couldn't hold him today -- I tried, but he screamed and fought me off. He was very possessive with his toys that the other kids kept trying to take from him or shake in front of him. Overstimulation overload. He just fretted and whimpered and cried for the first hour of our visit.
I sat by him on the floor for most of the time and talked quietly to him or to Ray and some of the other parents who came in and out, just to get him used to my voice. After a while, he was still fussy, but he risked making eye contact with me.
The last 15 minutes we were there, he sat on a bench with Ray and the nanny and let Ray shake his hand and give him goldfish crackers. In fact, Ray entertained the other kids with his floppy-arm handshake and had them in gales of laughter, practically all jumping on him for more. Loc started imitating the other kids and asking for a handshake, and I swear I saw a smile and almost a laugh in there somewhere.
So, not the most gratifying day, but that'll all come. A few things I learned today: NEVER wake him early from a nap, and his fine motor skills look pretty darn good. The nanny gave him a small packet of fruit gel snacks, and he kept taking them out of the packet (a silvery envelope) and putting them back in. Very good coordination.
Other highlights: We went to a supermarket today to stock up on Loc supplies and some candy for the kids, since today was our last visit to the orphanage. We're all madly in love with the older kids who can't be adopted. We overbought on candy and snacks, I'm sure, but we couldn't help ourselves.
Tomorrow is Gotcha Day. The nannys and the babies arrive at 11, and the G&R is at 2. Or is it 3? I've got to start writing this stuff down. I'm just following the herd at this point. We travel back to Saigon on Thursday to do the passport application and the medical evaluation. We get that stuff back on Friday, and fly up to Hanoi either Saturday or Sunday.
All subject to change, of course. But that looks like the schedule so far.
We'll have access to one of the parents' laptops tonight, so we'll upload some photos later on. This evening's agenda, our last "free night," is sight-seeing in Phan Thiet and a seafood dinner, followed by drinks and a little party in one couple's room.
Tomorrow's going to be a busy day, and a big, big day for us. I officially adopt Loc tomorrow. After that, he's mine in the eyes of the Vietnamese government.
I just hope he's had his nap.
So, I had one cranky, unhappy baby on my hands. I couldn't hold him today -- I tried, but he screamed and fought me off. He was very possessive with his toys that the other kids kept trying to take from him or shake in front of him. Overstimulation overload. He just fretted and whimpered and cried for the first hour of our visit.
I sat by him on the floor for most of the time and talked quietly to him or to Ray and some of the other parents who came in and out, just to get him used to my voice. After a while, he was still fussy, but he risked making eye contact with me.
The last 15 minutes we were there, he sat on a bench with Ray and the nanny and let Ray shake his hand and give him goldfish crackers. In fact, Ray entertained the other kids with his floppy-arm handshake and had them in gales of laughter, practically all jumping on him for more. Loc started imitating the other kids and asking for a handshake, and I swear I saw a smile and almost a laugh in there somewhere.
So, not the most gratifying day, but that'll all come. A few things I learned today: NEVER wake him early from a nap, and his fine motor skills look pretty darn good. The nanny gave him a small packet of fruit gel snacks, and he kept taking them out of the packet (a silvery envelope) and putting them back in. Very good coordination.
Other highlights: We went to a supermarket today to stock up on Loc supplies and some candy for the kids, since today was our last visit to the orphanage. We're all madly in love with the older kids who can't be adopted. We overbought on candy and snacks, I'm sure, but we couldn't help ourselves.
Tomorrow is Gotcha Day. The nannys and the babies arrive at 11, and the G&R is at 2. Or is it 3? I've got to start writing this stuff down. I'm just following the herd at this point. We travel back to Saigon on Thursday to do the passport application and the medical evaluation. We get that stuff back on Friday, and fly up to Hanoi either Saturday or Sunday.
All subject to change, of course. But that looks like the schedule so far.
We'll have access to one of the parents' laptops tonight, so we'll upload some photos later on. This evening's agenda, our last "free night," is sight-seeing in Phan Thiet and a seafood dinner, followed by drinks and a little party in one couple's room.
Tomorrow's going to be a busy day, and a big, big day for us. I officially adopt Loc tomorrow. After that, he's mine in the eyes of the Vietnamese government.
I just hope he's had his nap.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Off to the Orphanage
We're off to the orphanage again in about 45 minutes. It takes about an hour and a half to get there, or at least it took that long to get back from there yesterday, over some pretty rough roads. We might take a more direct route today.
The trip to Phan Thiet from the orphanage yesterday was pretty amazing. We went through rice paddies and dragonfruit (my new obsession, it is so freaking yummy) fields, and some salt flats. We saw people working the fields in their conical hats, leading cows around, and we saw some water buffalo rolling in the mud. We went through small towns where every house has a little storefront selling something in it. The architecture is so different. We'll post some photos later -- we've taken about 500, but we won't subject you to them all.
The hotel is amazing. A gorgeous resort right on the ocean in Phan Thiet, the fish sauce capital of Asia. Which means at certain times of the day, the fish sauce scent wafts over you as you lay in a hammock or by the pool, and it's, um, perhaps not that appetizing to our Western palates.
The food here is incredible. I may never eat shrimp again after I come home, because it's not going to compare. Yesterday, one of the new moms and I shared a steamed crab in a ginger/soy sauce. It was kind of like a stone crab -- I'm not sure of the species. Not as sweet as our blue crabs, but just delicious.
We switched rooms yesterday from the main hotel to one of the villas, which is a four-room building with a large common room. We're on the ground floor, so we have a little patio and then lush green grass in front of us all the way to the ocean. Lots of room for Loc to run around when we get him. There's a playground nearby too, although it's a bit close to the archery range for my tastes. The room is a little dark -- all teak -- and a little more humid, with its stone and wood open-air shower, than in the main hotel, but it has oodles of charm. And I think the layout is better for Loc, with all that room to run around in instead of a hotel hallway. I can't wait to get him here and let him try the pool and the beach.
At the visit yesterday, we got to talk with Mrs. Thu, the orphanage director, about how Loc came to be at the orphanage. We only got a few more details, but every bit is so valuable to us to be able to tell him later. Two of the families we're with were given photos of their children's birth mothers yesterday, an incredible gift from Mrs. Thu.
Loc's nanny, Phuong, seems to take really good care of him and is so generous with helping me with him. She assures me he sleeps through the night and will go right to sleep the minute I put him down. Okay, lady, I'm going to hold you to that one! Ha ha.
The trip to Phan Thiet from the orphanage yesterday was pretty amazing. We went through rice paddies and dragonfruit (my new obsession, it is so freaking yummy) fields, and some salt flats. We saw people working the fields in their conical hats, leading cows around, and we saw some water buffalo rolling in the mud. We went through small towns where every house has a little storefront selling something in it. The architecture is so different. We'll post some photos later -- we've taken about 500, but we won't subject you to them all.
The hotel is amazing. A gorgeous resort right on the ocean in Phan Thiet, the fish sauce capital of Asia. Which means at certain times of the day, the fish sauce scent wafts over you as you lay in a hammock or by the pool, and it's, um, perhaps not that appetizing to our Western palates.
The food here is incredible. I may never eat shrimp again after I come home, because it's not going to compare. Yesterday, one of the new moms and I shared a steamed crab in a ginger/soy sauce. It was kind of like a stone crab -- I'm not sure of the species. Not as sweet as our blue crabs, but just delicious.
We switched rooms yesterday from the main hotel to one of the villas, which is a four-room building with a large common room. We're on the ground floor, so we have a little patio and then lush green grass in front of us all the way to the ocean. Lots of room for Loc to run around when we get him. There's a playground nearby too, although it's a bit close to the archery range for my tastes. The room is a little dark -- all teak -- and a little more humid, with its stone and wood open-air shower, than in the main hotel, but it has oodles of charm. And I think the layout is better for Loc, with all that room to run around in instead of a hotel hallway. I can't wait to get him here and let him try the pool and the beach.
At the visit yesterday, we got to talk with Mrs. Thu, the orphanage director, about how Loc came to be at the orphanage. We only got a few more details, but every bit is so valuable to us to be able to tell him later. Two of the families we're with were given photos of their children's birth mothers yesterday, an incredible gift from Mrs. Thu.
Loc's nanny, Phuong, seems to take really good care of him and is so generous with helping me with him. She assures me he sleeps through the night and will go right to sleep the minute I put him down. Okay, lady, I'm going to hold you to that one! Ha ha.
Meeting Loc
We went to the orphanage this morning, about a three and a half hour drive, and the last 30 minutes are a blur to me, I was so nervous. We took a ton of photos from the windows of the car on the way out, which I hope to post later, because it was an amazing trip. Saigon gave way to rural Vietnam, which was at once beautiful and shockingly poor.
We got to the orphanage, and older kids rushed out to greet us. Then, before I could take a breath, we were ushered into one room with another couple to see our kids. Theirs, a 4-month-old, was in her bouncy seat. And there, standing across the room, was Loc.
He's smaller than I imagined, but there was no mistaking him.
His nanny brought him over to us, and he immediately started fretting and getting anxious. She tried to sit him on my lap, and that's when the real waterworks started. He was so afraid of me, he was trembling like a leaf. He kept pushing at me, trying to get away. So, we sat for a while on the floor and talked to him quietly while the nanny held him. We got out some bubbles and he chased them, and eventually he let me feed him a piece of Oreo.
After a while, he was getting antsy about being cooped up in the hot room -- he kept running over to the door -- so the nanny gestured to me to try to take him outside. She put him in my arms, and this time he didn't protest. "He loves to be outside," Thao translated for me, and I thought, good -- he's going to get along with his cousin Renee just great.
I walked around the orphanage courtyard with him for a few minutes, and he wasn't protesting, and then he started blinking really slowly, so I shifted him so his head was resting on my chest, and he went right to sleep.
I held him for 45 minutes while he slept (he's a little furnace and it was HOT, so my shirt was soaked to the skin by the time he woke up). He was a little disoriented when he woke up (who the heck is holding me?) and started fretting again, so I put him down and let him run around.
Then a little while later, he let me pick him up again, and Ray fed him little Teddy Grahams, which he liked. And then, and this is where I really almost lost it, he started feeding cookies to me. Ray would give him one, and he would reach up and put it right in my mouth.
We were there two and a half hours, and while I didn't get a smile out of him, he seemed to get more and more used to us. We go back tomorrow for another visit, and then we hope to have the G&R on Wednesday, at which time we'll get him full-time. I was ready to take him home today, of course, but maybe another visit isn't such a bad idea. He really needs time to warm up to us.
The orphanage was about what I expected, except for the decorations on the walls, which included a giant Santa Claus and a wooden carving of Betty Boop straddling a beer bottle. WTF?
There are a lot of kids there -- a bunch of babies, and a lot of older kids, including a wonderful 17-year-old boy who speaks good English and did some interpreting for me. What does Loc like to eat?, I asked. "Candy." What does he like to do? "He likes to watch TV."
Well, he'll have no problem becoming an American.
The caregiver to kid ratio is really good there, and the place is clean if sparse. No, there aren't any mattresses in the cribs. Yes, it's pretty chaotic -- some of the kids are pretty rowdy -- but they all seem to get along and take care of each other. One girl held Loc a lot while I wasn't holding him. They've had some problems with only having electricity every other day, so the kids all have prickly heat. Loc's back and arms are covered in spots, but that'll clear up when he gets into some AC.
Otherwise, he looks pretty healthy, and he's certainly getting around a lot. He carries the two stuffed toys I sent him and guards them with his life. He knows they belong to him.
We're at the very swank Novotel resort in Phan Thiet right now and can't upload photos from their Internet center, but I'll upload some tomorrow night when I can borrow one of the other parents' computers.
It was such an emotional day. I think everyone was crying at the orphanage. The other three families' kids look great as well. It was tough to leave this afternoon.
So, round two tomorrow. Let's see if Loc recognizes us and if we can coax a smile out of him. But we're off to a good start. He's wonderful. We couldn't be happier.
We got to the orphanage, and older kids rushed out to greet us. Then, before I could take a breath, we were ushered into one room with another couple to see our kids. Theirs, a 4-month-old, was in her bouncy seat. And there, standing across the room, was Loc.
He's smaller than I imagined, but there was no mistaking him.
His nanny brought him over to us, and he immediately started fretting and getting anxious. She tried to sit him on my lap, and that's when the real waterworks started. He was so afraid of me, he was trembling like a leaf. He kept pushing at me, trying to get away. So, we sat for a while on the floor and talked to him quietly while the nanny held him. We got out some bubbles and he chased them, and eventually he let me feed him a piece of Oreo.
After a while, he was getting antsy about being cooped up in the hot room -- he kept running over to the door -- so the nanny gestured to me to try to take him outside. She put him in my arms, and this time he didn't protest. "He loves to be outside," Thao translated for me, and I thought, good -- he's going to get along with his cousin Renee just great.
I walked around the orphanage courtyard with him for a few minutes, and he wasn't protesting, and then he started blinking really slowly, so I shifted him so his head was resting on my chest, and he went right to sleep.
I held him for 45 minutes while he slept (he's a little furnace and it was HOT, so my shirt was soaked to the skin by the time he woke up). He was a little disoriented when he woke up (who the heck is holding me?) and started fretting again, so I put him down and let him run around.
Then a little while later, he let me pick him up again, and Ray fed him little Teddy Grahams, which he liked. And then, and this is where I really almost lost it, he started feeding cookies to me. Ray would give him one, and he would reach up and put it right in my mouth.
We were there two and a half hours, and while I didn't get a smile out of him, he seemed to get more and more used to us. We go back tomorrow for another visit, and then we hope to have the G&R on Wednesday, at which time we'll get him full-time. I was ready to take him home today, of course, but maybe another visit isn't such a bad idea. He really needs time to warm up to us.
The orphanage was about what I expected, except for the decorations on the walls, which included a giant Santa Claus and a wooden carving of Betty Boop straddling a beer bottle. WTF?
There are a lot of kids there -- a bunch of babies, and a lot of older kids, including a wonderful 17-year-old boy who speaks good English and did some interpreting for me. What does Loc like to eat?, I asked. "Candy." What does he like to do? "He likes to watch TV."
Well, he'll have no problem becoming an American.
The caregiver to kid ratio is really good there, and the place is clean if sparse. No, there aren't any mattresses in the cribs. Yes, it's pretty chaotic -- some of the kids are pretty rowdy -- but they all seem to get along and take care of each other. One girl held Loc a lot while I wasn't holding him. They've had some problems with only having electricity every other day, so the kids all have prickly heat. Loc's back and arms are covered in spots, but that'll clear up when he gets into some AC.
Otherwise, he looks pretty healthy, and he's certainly getting around a lot. He carries the two stuffed toys I sent him and guards them with his life. He knows they belong to him.
We're at the very swank Novotel resort in Phan Thiet right now and can't upload photos from their Internet center, but I'll upload some tomorrow night when I can borrow one of the other parents' computers.
It was such an emotional day. I think everyone was crying at the orphanage. The other three families' kids look great as well. It was tough to leave this afternoon.
So, round two tomorrow. Let's see if Loc recognizes us and if we can coax a smile out of him. But we're off to a good start. He's wonderful. We couldn't be happier.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
We're here!
Whew, has it been a long day.
We got to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) around 11:30 a.m. local time. Thao met us at the airport, and we took a van in. It's hard to describe the van trip, but I hope on the way out we'll shoot some film of it to share. Imagine you're in a minivan with other cars in heavy traffic, and there are people on scooters all around you, and by all around you I mean you look out the window and there's a family of three on a scooter inches from your window, and every few minutes you hit a new intersection, and scooters and cars cut in front of you to make left-hand turns or merge into your lane from the right. Hundreds of them.
Somehow it all works, but sometimes there are literally inches to spare. And there are also people on bikes in this fray. Tonight, we saw tossed in the mix of this crazy traffic a guy on a bike transporting an entire six-piece set of wicker furniture.
Oh, and everyone's got their hands on the horn full-time. It's not NYC horn-blowing, however. It's somehow gentle and polite.
The hotel is gorgeous. We're on the 17th floor, and there's a lounge on the 18th where we can have drinks and snacks till midnight. The service is fantastic -- I've written four paragraphs and have been asked three times if there's anything anyone can get me.
After we rested up and took much-needed showers, we took a walk around the hotel area. Yes, we crossed streets in Saigon by ourselves, which wasn't as bad as I feared. And while the humidity here is pretty brutal, it's not that much worse than DC in August.
Thao took us out to buy strollers, and then we went to dinner. The stroller shopping was a disappointment -- we got a really flimsy umbrella stroller for more than we would have paid for one in the US, making me irritated that we were advised to buy one here instead of bringing one. Oh well.
But dinner was amazing. The card is back in the room so I don't have the name of the restaurant, but if you've seen Tony Bourdain's or Andrew Zimmer's episodes on Vietnam, you've seen it featured. It's this huge open-air restaurant with essentially "streets" lining the perimeter featuring the best "street food" vendors in the city. You assemble your meal from the various chefs, who all specialize in one or two items. We had spring rolls, summer rolls, shrimp 'n pork crepes, steamed shrimp, a spicy cucumber/chicken/pork salad on rice crackers, and grilled squid. The shrimp (head-on of course) were amazing -- nothing like the farm-raised, faintly bleached-tasting ones you get at home. You dip them in a mixture of coasre salt and pepper doused with lime juice. We ate tons, had a couple rounds of beers, and it totalled less than $10 a piece.
Now we're crashing hard. Despite doing really well today energy-wise, the jet lag is catching up. And tomorrow's going to be a long day as well. Oh, with one highlight: We meet Loc.
We still don't have a Giving & Receiving Ceremony date, which is a bit nerve-wracking at this point. It won't be Monday, maybe Tuesday, maybe Wednesday. So, we'll leave the hotel tomorrow at 8, and be driven three and a half hours to the orphanage. We'll hang out with Loc for a while, then go another hour and a half to the hotel. If the G&R is not until Wednesday, we probably will go back to the orphanage on Monday for another visit, and then not get Loc until Tuesday. We just have to stay flexible and go with the flow right now. Nothing to worry about, but of course we wish things were more definitive.
It's 8:30 p.m. here now, and I've got to get some sleep so I'm in the best possible shape tomorrow to meet the little guy. It's going to be a big day.
We got to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) around 11:30 a.m. local time. Thao met us at the airport, and we took a van in. It's hard to describe the van trip, but I hope on the way out we'll shoot some film of it to share. Imagine you're in a minivan with other cars in heavy traffic, and there are people on scooters all around you, and by all around you I mean you look out the window and there's a family of three on a scooter inches from your window, and every few minutes you hit a new intersection, and scooters and cars cut in front of you to make left-hand turns or merge into your lane from the right. Hundreds of them.
Somehow it all works, but sometimes there are literally inches to spare. And there are also people on bikes in this fray. Tonight, we saw tossed in the mix of this crazy traffic a guy on a bike transporting an entire six-piece set of wicker furniture.
Oh, and everyone's got their hands on the horn full-time. It's not NYC horn-blowing, however. It's somehow gentle and polite.
The hotel is gorgeous. We're on the 17th floor, and there's a lounge on the 18th where we can have drinks and snacks till midnight. The service is fantastic -- I've written four paragraphs and have been asked three times if there's anything anyone can get me.
After we rested up and took much-needed showers, we took a walk around the hotel area. Yes, we crossed streets in Saigon by ourselves, which wasn't as bad as I feared. And while the humidity here is pretty brutal, it's not that much worse than DC in August.
Thao took us out to buy strollers, and then we went to dinner. The stroller shopping was a disappointment -- we got a really flimsy umbrella stroller for more than we would have paid for one in the US, making me irritated that we were advised to buy one here instead of bringing one. Oh well.
But dinner was amazing. The card is back in the room so I don't have the name of the restaurant, but if you've seen Tony Bourdain's or Andrew Zimmer's episodes on Vietnam, you've seen it featured. It's this huge open-air restaurant with essentially "streets" lining the perimeter featuring the best "street food" vendors in the city. You assemble your meal from the various chefs, who all specialize in one or two items. We had spring rolls, summer rolls, shrimp 'n pork crepes, steamed shrimp, a spicy cucumber/chicken/pork salad on rice crackers, and grilled squid. The shrimp (head-on of course) were amazing -- nothing like the farm-raised, faintly bleached-tasting ones you get at home. You dip them in a mixture of coasre salt and pepper doused with lime juice. We ate tons, had a couple rounds of beers, and it totalled less than $10 a piece.
Now we're crashing hard. Despite doing really well today energy-wise, the jet lag is catching up. And tomorrow's going to be a long day as well. Oh, with one highlight: We meet Loc.
We still don't have a Giving & Receiving Ceremony date, which is a bit nerve-wracking at this point. It won't be Monday, maybe Tuesday, maybe Wednesday. So, we'll leave the hotel tomorrow at 8, and be driven three and a half hours to the orphanage. We'll hang out with Loc for a while, then go another hour and a half to the hotel. If the G&R is not until Wednesday, we probably will go back to the orphanage on Monday for another visit, and then not get Loc until Tuesday. We just have to stay flexible and go with the flow right now. Nothing to worry about, but of course we wish things were more definitive.
It's 8:30 p.m. here now, and I've got to get some sleep so I'm in the best possible shape tomorrow to meet the little guy. It's going to be a big day.
Friday, July 18, 2008
In Taiwan
The longest leg of the flight is over, and it's 6:30 a.m. in Taipei.
The plane out of Dulles was almost two hours late, but we got bulkhead seats and still had a long layover in San Francisco. We had dinner with Red and Christy (sorry if we're spelling your name wrong!) and hung out for a while with them in the terminal. It was a long day, however -- midnight our time while we were having dinner.
Then came the long wait in the international terminal before finally leaving the US at 1:40 a.m. West Coast time. The flight on EVA was great. Bulkhead seats again -- jackpot -- and then after dinner and a couple Tylenol PM's, it was off to dreamland. There was so much food on the EVA flight that we've barely dug into the Big Bag o' Snacks. The flight was over 12 hours, but we both got a lot of sleep and are feeling good, awake, rested here in Taipei.
The airport is beautiful, with art displays and an orchid garden. But already we're feeling the stickiness in the air. We've got about 2 and a half hours before we head on to Saigon.
At some point over the Pacific, I had an OMG-Am-I-Really-Doing-This? moment. It still doesn't seem real. Parts of it feel like we're in an episode of "The Amazing Race," with all this time running from one airport terminal to the next.
The flight to Saigon is about 3 and a half hours. Then the adventure really begins.
The plane out of Dulles was almost two hours late, but we got bulkhead seats and still had a long layover in San Francisco. We had dinner with Red and Christy (sorry if we're spelling your name wrong!) and hung out for a while with them in the terminal. It was a long day, however -- midnight our time while we were having dinner.
Then came the long wait in the international terminal before finally leaving the US at 1:40 a.m. West Coast time. The flight on EVA was great. Bulkhead seats again -- jackpot -- and then after dinner and a couple Tylenol PM's, it was off to dreamland. There was so much food on the EVA flight that we've barely dug into the Big Bag o' Snacks. The flight was over 12 hours, but we both got a lot of sleep and are feeling good, awake, rested here in Taipei.
The airport is beautiful, with art displays and an orchid garden. But already we're feeling the stickiness in the air. We've got about 2 and a half hours before we head on to Saigon.
At some point over the Pacific, I had an OMG-Am-I-Really-Doing-This? moment. It still doesn't seem real. Parts of it feel like we're in an episode of "The Amazing Race," with all this time running from one airport terminal to the next.
The flight to Saigon is about 3 and a half hours. Then the adventure really begins.
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