Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Off to Halong Bay

Six adults, two infants, and a toddler on a couple-hour bus ride and then a boat overnight. Are we crazy?

We just couldn't face another day at the hotel and needed a change of scenery in one of the most amazing sites on the planet, according to UNESCO. Look up Halong Bay on Wikipedia, or see our photos later.

Love to all.

Those Amazing Race contestants make it look so easy

Aaaargh.

We got Loc's visa this morning, no problem, and then 5 of us parents and Loc and Baby Sophie rushed off to the EVA Airlines office to beg to get on a flight today or tomorrow.

No dice. We're stuck with our Sunday flight. They have nothing available out of Taiwan to the US except one seat to Los Angeles on Friday, and the 5 of us didn't want to fight over who got that. (Ha ha.) How do those people on "The Amazing Race" jet around the globe at a moment's notice? Is "reality tv" not really real? Shocking.

We really want to come home ASAP, not just because we're anxious to get our lives back to normal and to see everyone, but because it's too hot to do much here and the hotel is not exactly cheap.

Troy and Christine are leaving for Saigon this afternoon for the rest of the trip (she has family there), so the 6 remaining 'rents are discussing embarking on a tour of Halong Bay tomorrow, with an overnight on a boat. Everyone recommends seeing this place, and an overnight tour and cruise is cheaper than the hotel. It should be an adventure -- I'm just not sure if it's a trip to crazytown. Loc was up at 4 this morning and screamed his head off until 8. I think he has a tooth coming in and he's not happy about it. After I blog this, I'm heading to the grocery store for some Johnnie Walker to put on his gums.

KIDDING!!! I'll wait for Aunt Melinda to buy him his first shot.

Anyways, if we do Halong Bay I'll be out of touch for a couple days, but we should get some amazing photos of it. Unless we're kicked off the boat for screaming children.

This afternoon, I'm going shopping with the other moms for more silks. If I can't go home, I may as well shop, right? Loc and Ray are going to hang out at the pool.

Wish I had better news about the flights. Sunday feels like a long ways off. Thanks to everyone for your comments -- you're keeping us going right now.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Almost there

The Embassy interview went well. It wasn't really an interview, like they used to do, thanks to the new procedures. All I had to do was swear that everything in the visa application was true to the best of my knowledge. Hey, no problem!

We were there for a long time, however. They told us we could get the visas the same day, at 4 p.m., so we elected to hang out and wait for them. Over an hour in a government office waiting area with a toddler... ugh. He was moderately good, with one small meltdown. Unfortunately, the visas weren't ready at 4. They told us maybe 5 p.m., so Thao sent us back to the hotel and waited for us. 5 p.m., no visas. They are promising by 9 a.m. tomorrow.

What does that mean? That possibly means that by 9 a.m. we're done and free to leave Vietnam. Unfortunately, we might not be able to leave early. There was a typhoon in Taiwan on Monday, and it resulted in all flights being canceled out of Taipei. Our travel agent is warning that he might not be able to change our tickets because the Taiwanese airline we're on is so backlogged right now.

Most of us are all a little depressed about this. We're all so ready to come home. So, we're crossing our fingers and seeing what can be done to get us home early, but we really can't give the travel agent the go-ahead to find us flights until we have the kids' visas in hand tomorrow.

But as you saw from Ray's posts, today was a good day. Loc was just great today. Happy kid with only the normal toddler tantrums every now and then. Plus, MAJOR development. When Ray tried to give him his bottle this morning, he screamed and wriggled away and cried for "Meh! Meh!" (His version of Mommy -- a Vietnamese/English hybrid). He did it a few more times today, calling for "Meh" when he wanted something. Pretty cool, huh? And I was so worried about bonding.

Also, he understands a ton of Vietnamese and very little English, but he still surprises us. This evening he instigated a peek-a-boo game with the living room curtains. He'd hide behind then, and we'd wonder aloud where he was, and he would burst out of them and come running at us. It was simply amazing -- just from the tone of our voices, I guess, he figured out how to play the game. So, if we are stuck here till Sunday, at least we have something fun to do.

Deep Kid Pool


Deep Kid Pool
Originally uploaded by razweekly
This is the deeper of the two kid pools. You can just see the step where Loc can stand pretty well except for some bouancy from the pool diapers. There is a second pool in the background. Also notice the wind flapping the flags. A great breeze in the shade for the morning. We all enjoyed it.

You'll also see the adult pool. Loc went jumping into that for a while too. But he got tired of it because it was so hard for him to pull himself out.

Difficult balancing act to teach fear of the water and yet enjoyment as well. So he got a few mouthfuls and a dunk.

Loc Takes a Swim


Loc Takes a Swim
Originally uploaded by razweekly
Note: Big experiment since I can not watch video from here.

The two kid pools were Loc's playground for the morning. Watch him kick in this video! Bonnie just drags him around and around the edge. I'm hoping you can hear him laugh. He loves the water now after some big fears in Saigon.

His play involved throwing his plastic spoon or his shoes into the middle of the pool. Then he'd jump right off the ledge of the pool into the deep water where we'd catch him. Most of the time we got him before his head went under but a few times he surprised us and he got a mouthful. But he kept coming back for more and more.

Over all it was a very good morning. After waking up about 5 and taking a bottle, he awoke again about 7 in a great mood. Lots of laughs and giggles as we played hide and seek in the sheets, tickled him and just had fun. Then we walked around the apartment without shoes and monopolizing the remote control. He's ready for America!

Breakfast followed where we saw the other families and got caught up on their adventures. Then pool time for the three of us which was more fun than taking a bath.

It was also an important day for "giving up" some objects for a while. You'll see no hat on his head, his shoes are off and the always present tripod is put away. The stroller is hidden in the bathroom for the morning.

Bonnie and Loc are away at the U.S. Embassy getting Loc's visa approved. I know he'll do well at his first interview. His first time on U.S. soil!

I'll upload more photos to Flickr and move some over here. Thanks for all the comments.

Monday, July 28, 2008

Shopping Day

We're beat. We had a long day in Hanoi, where it's HOT. And we had a long morning with a very unhappy boy who woke up in yet another room and another city. He had just gotten to the point where he didn't scream in our room in Saigon, and we pulled another switcheroo on him. So, last night was loooong trying to get him to sleep, and then this morning was rough. He was generally unhappy and screamed for a couple hours and was back to needing all his comfort items with him.

But he rallied for our shopping trip with some of the other moms and Thao, who did our bargaining for us. And boy did we get bargains, like silk scarves for 3 bucks. Gorgeous stuff here.

Loc stayed in the Hip Hammock the whole shopping trip, from shop to shop, and was very chill and flirted with all the shopgirls. Maybe that's why we got bargains.

After a nice long nap for him and Dad, we headed out to walk around the lake. Way too hot, but it was interesting. Hanoi is so different from Saigon, so much like France in its architecture.

We had dinner at a Thai place, and now it's off to bed. Loc needs to make a good impression at his Embassy interview tomorrow. Wish us luck -- this is the last step in his paperwork.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

In Hanoi

We made it to Hanoi today and are settled in the Somerset Grand. A far different set-up from the Saigon hotel. We have a two-bedroom, two-bath apartment with a kitchen and washer and dryer. Breakfast is included in the Somerset restaurant, but we're going to miss our Club Lounge with free Internet (it's 3 bucks for 30 minutes here, WTF?), free booze (seriously, WTF???), free snacks all day long, and those views of the Saigon River Loc found so compelling.

Loc was amazing on the flight today. He settled against me and went right to sleep as soon as we started to take off, and woke up when we landed.

In fact, today has been one long day of, what happened to the scared, withdrawn and fussy kid we adopted? This new boy is absolutely delightful, giggling all the time, playing games with us, generally being charming, eating up a storm, and even splashing in the pool today and laughing his head off.

We had a real adventure when we got here. We joined Thao, Christine, and Troy for lunch for Vietnamese food. We went to this place where they were cooking food and washing dishes basically on the street. We climbed a flight of narrow stairs to the dining room, where the food was already on the table. You just sat down and started eating. No refrigeration except for the beers. It was grilled beef and pork in a bowl of sauce, sliced-up spring rolls, a plate of noodles, pickled papaya, and a plate of lettuce and mint. You're supposed to mix everything together and dig in. We avoided the uncooked stuff and hoped for the best. So far, so good. It was delicious, but about as authentic as I want to get.

Hanoi is totally different from Saigon. Much less hectic and less crowded, and the buildings are all older and more French colonial looking. It's hotter and dusty here. Where we are has some new construction, but not like Saigon. It definitely has that post-colonial look.

Okay, the space key on this computer isn't working, so I'll say goodnight. We have a free day tomorrow while Thao does paperwork, so we're going shopping. Then another Big Day on Tuesday, when I have the US Embassy interview and hopefully get the boy's visa. As soon as I get that, we can come home, so stay tuned!!

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Loc's Saigon Aunts



















We had a wonderful lunch and outing today with Titi's friends. Trang, Nguyet, Nguyet's daughter Be Sua, and Oanh met us at the hotel and whisked us in a cab to Ngoc Suong Marina, the best seafood restaurant in Saigon. We had a feast of seafood delicacies. Loc was a little hesitant at first, but warmed up to his new Saigon aunts, who took turns walking him around the restaurant. Nguyet had great success feeding him congee after we had finished our lunch. Then he dove into the longan fruits for dessert. He enjoyed them so much that Trang had the leftovers boxed up for him for a treat for later. He was very well-behaved at the restaurant and was even smiling and laughing on the ride back to the hotel. With all the excitement, he's now sleeping off his big outing.

What a wonderful day. We cannot say enough about the hospitality shown to us by these ladies who only know us through Titi, mom to Brian back in the US and fellow client at our adoption agency. They went to high school with Titi here in Saigon, so she was kind enough to make the introduction. To see Saigon with people who live here and be treated to lunch and a nice afternoon by them was priceless. We would never have this kind of experience on our own as American tourists.

Titi, if you're reading this, please let your friends know that we will email them photos when we get home. The Internet connection here is very slow for emailing large files.

Pictured from top to bottom are: the group; Trang; Nguyet; Oanh; and Be Sua. New friends in Saigon!


Friday, July 25, 2008

Bath Time

Loc had his first bath in the tub today, with Dad. Sorry to disappoint you, but there are no photos of this event.

He didn't much like it, but at least he's a little fresher now. We're meeting Titi's friends Trang and Nguyet for lunch today, and we wanted Loc to be presentable.

Every day he's getting more and more comfortable with us. He had a rocky night, but I think it was because of the Vietnamese sausages he ate for dinner. His little burps could clear a room, they were practically fire-breathing. This morning he's doing well and practicing his fork skills and just generally being adorable.

So, we have a big adventure out today for lunch, and then maybe the market later on this evening.

Oops, here he comes, gotta run.

Grandma, I'm Coming to See You


Coming to See You
Originally uploaded by razweekly

Not Always Smiles


Not Always Smiles
Originally uploaded by razweekly
Lunch was over. Enough feeding myself with a fork. I want to go outside. I don't care if it is raining. I'm ready to go.

Luckily these are not frequent.

Fork


Fork
Originally uploaded by razweekly
I can use a fork and feed myself pasta. The Italian restuarant around the corner was a good lunchtime outing. Very humid, hot and rainy here today. Usual on and off rain.

Loc took the pasta right off the plate by himself. Not enough tomatoe sauce yet for a classic photo.

Smiling Loc


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Enjoying a day at the windy beach. Loc shows us that he has teeth today with lots of laughs and giggles.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Boom!

Loc showed us a new trick at 5:30 this morning -- climbing out of his crib. We woke up to a crash and a wail and found him wedged between the sofa and the crib. Holy crap.

So, he's sleeping on a mattress on the floor from now on. I'm so glad we didn't invest in a crib at home and went straight to a bed, although I think we need a railing for it since he thrashes around a bit.

It's 9 a.m. in Saigon and we're off to a good start. He had TWO bowls of chicken congee this morning, with no chipmunkery going on. We're both completely relieved that his appetite is finally coming back and he's learning that the hotel breakfast buffet really is "all you can eat." He also loves these delicious Vietnamese cherries that will probably be impossible to find back home.

The fruit here is unreal. I thought I hated papaya. I had just never had a truly ripe one before. And don't get me started again on the dragonfruit -- I can't eat enough of it. Dragonfruit looks like a white kiwi when it's peeled, but in its natural state it's this large pink spiky thing, almost like a giant pink artichoke. We got one in a welcome basket from the hotel yesterday and were like, WTF do we do with this? And then Loc picked it up and peeled it! Who knew?! He even used his teeth on the tough parts to the peel. He can also peel a banana in a flash. He's very resourceful.

I guess it's the institutional care. We can't get him to drink out of a sippy cup, but he can hold a 16-oz bottle of Aquafina and drink from it like he's been doing it since birth.

Okay, more later -- now we're off to the pool to see if he likes that better the second time.

Back in Saigon

We've had a very long, eventful day. We left Phan Thiet early this morning after some last-minute paperwork that had to be straightened out for one of the other families.



I'm going to miss the Novotel and our ocean-front room. The place was gorgeous, the food was wonderful, and it was nice to have such expansive grounds to push Loc's stroller on (this evening was back 'n forth down the hotel hallway, and it got old fast). However, Phan Thiet had its downsides. Loc is scared to death of confined spaces -- every elevator ride is traumatic -- and he hated our dark, teak-filled room in Phan Thiet. He would start whimpering the minute we went in, so we ended up spending every moment outside of it until he fell asleep at night. Which meant long days in really hot, humid weather. I got tired of asking myself, Is that the fish sauce factory, or is it me?, because I would seriously be covered in sweat within minutes. No amount of showering helped. I felt perpetually rank the whole time I was there.



But what's a little discomfort? It was a beautiful setting, and I'm thankful we had the extra day there to get to know each other. It made today's long van ride to Saigon manageable. Loc's now comfortable enough with us that he sat in our laps, cuddled up, and slept most of the way back, or looked out the window.



We got back to the Renaissance Riverside around noon, and then we had a busy afternoon. We applied for his Vietnamese passport at the local passport office which was on par, comfortwise, with the Pikesville office where I got my fingerprints done.



Then it was off to Cho Ray Hospital for his medical exam. This one was a bit of a culture shock for me. Saigon is a city of 9 million, and this is a huge hospital -- the size of Hopkins, maybe -- and it was jam-packed. The trek through it to to the Visa Medical Exam building was crazy, with people on guerneys and crowds of relatives around them.



The medical exam was pretty uneventful. He got weighed and measured, and a doctor checked him with a stethoscope and then took off his diaper and gave his junk an okay.



The passport office and the clinic were pretty crowded today, yet we had very short waits to be seen. Thao is awesome at pushing paperwork through. We were told the passport would be ready July 31, but Thao assured us she'll be picking it up tomorrow.



I've been feeling nauseous this evening, and we had a little trouble getting Loc to sleep because he slept so much on the car ride, but otherwise we're all doing well. What a difference 24 hours has made. This evening we did happy hour snacks in the Club Lounge at the hotel, on the 18th floor, and Loc pointed out boats to me on the Saigon River below. He actually spent some time today without his baseball cap and his washcloth. He's starting to get much more verbal -- just wish I understood him. We asked Christine to interpret this evening, but she said it's just Vietnamese baby talk.



Tomorrow we settle up some fees and hang out waiting for the passport and the results of the medical evaluation. We hope to get some pool time in and maybe see a little of Saigon. Titi, we'll give Trang a call and try to schedule something with her for Saturday.



We didn't take a lot of photos today, but Ray did take a movie of us going through a traffic circle in Saigon along with a dozen cars and a gazillion scooters. If you want a good case of nausea, we'll screen it for you.



Thanks again for all the comments. We love reading them. We miss everyone back home. We're praying we can leave early, because we realized today we only left a week ago, and the prospect of another week and a half is daunting. It's not that this isn't the trip of the lifetime and a wonderful place, but living in a hotel room with a toddler is a challenge. I think it'll be better in Hanoi, where our hotel is more like an apartment.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Waiting for the Bus


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Loc and Dad waiting to get on the bus for the Giving and Receiving Ceremony. As you'll see from other photos Loc equal like being in our arms.

Loc in the Pool


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
This was Loc in the pool with Dad. Holding dearly to the comfort items I was able to get his feet and sandals wet. Splashed a little on his arms but that was the limit today. More tomorrow from the pool atop Saigon.

Everyone is Smiling

Mom, Dad and Loc are one happy family. He got new shoes, which you will love hearing, and was able to run again. I'd put him down and he'd walk to Mom with her arms open and say "Up" in Vietnamese and have the largest smile in his parent arms.

We also visited the other families in one of the rooms yesterday evening and found out he likes these snack that are like French Fried Potatoes. Another thing he likes to eat with out stuffing his checks. Watch out Happy Meals in the future.

He goes down to sleep very well. The usual fussing and gathering of comfort items but in a few moments he'll be asleep.

We wanted to teach him two things yesterday: stroller and pool. Both of these will be big for the next week. The stroller was no problem. He loves it and it is becoming a comfort item for him. So that was easy. The pool was not a great hit as you will see from a photo. We'll keep working on that one.

I'll say more later. It is taking forever to upload photos and I've got to get back to the room. I'm sure Loc is up and we've got to pack and leave early.

Thanks for all the comments and readers. We miss you all.

First Breakfast


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Loc loves his rice porridge. We lost count at how much he ate at his first breakfast. This was great because he ate very little the day before. He also liked the dragon fruit - our favorite as well.

All the mothers with their children


P1010324
Originally uploaded by razweekly

Final Hug Goodbye


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Loc gives his final hug to his caregiver. A very teary moment. She was unbelievable good with him and so wonderful during the entire transition. Just brilliant with kids and true to the culture.

Head Official with Official Family


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Bonnie and Loc with the head official of the government who was very gracious to everyone.

First Family Photo


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Bonnie, Loc and Ray after the Giving and Receiving Ceremony in the local government building. This was a very hot day in late July but every is overwhelmingly happy.

Some things about Loc

Here are a few more things we're learning about Loc, in addition to his chipmunk habits.

* The Bling. We had seen his little silver bracelet in his photos, but he's also wearing a silver chain around his neck. Neither of these pieces have clasps or hooks, and they were obviously put on when he was much smaller. There's no way either are coming off now without being cut off.

Which we are NOT going to do any time soon.

* His comfort objects. He's been through a lot in the past few days, so it helps him to keep the following things on or with him at all times. The minute one is missing, it's panic city. They are: a pink baseball cap; a little washcloth (thankfully, the orphanage gave us four of these, because the first two are pretty filthy by now); his rotting-on-his-feet faux Tommy Hilfiger sandals; Ray's camera tripod, which he became enamored with from Day 1.

* His fastidiousness. See washcloth, above. When he drinks or eats, he wipes his little face with the washcloth. Spill water or milk or food on his clothes? Out comes the washcloth for a quick wipedown. I noticed the nanny telling him to wipe his face after every sip, and now it's learned behavior.

* His many, many fans. Today, Troy and Christine and Ray and I and the two boy babies took a trip to the supermarket/department store in downtown Phan Thiet for some supplies and new shoes for Loc (see above. His orphanage shoes were totally falling apart to the point where he couldn't walk in them anymore, so we risked buying two new pair, which seem to be working just fine -- I was worried it was the Tommy Hilfiger's or nothing). Anyways, I let Ray run into the grocery store part for some bottled water while I walked Loc around the ground floor, which was a series of shops and stalls. He caused quite a commotion. Shopgirls came rushing out to see him, and within minutes I was surrounded by the girls from the nail salon, the luggage store, and the boutique, who were all trying to hold him or tickle him. They were peppering me with questions in very limited English, but we got the basic point across. Yes, he's Vietnamese; he's almost 2; I'm his mommy; I'm American. They were all happy for him and for me.

We're getting a head start on being a conspicuous family over here. I know when we come back, people might stare every now and then to see two white people with an Asian baby, but over here, we get stared at all the time. I think partly because we're pretty tall compared to the rest of the population. Everyone is so nice and wonderful. We get the biggest smiles and hellos wherever we go.

* He doesn't like car rides. Whimper, whimper, whimper the minute he gets in the van. And we have a 3-hour trip tomorrow.

* He's partially potty-trained. JACKPOT!

Tonight wasn't too bad. He fussed a little at bedtime, but I actually got him to sleep without the hysterics of last night. Now he's sleeping like an angel in one of the t-shirts Aunt Roberta gave him while Ray re-organizes our luggage. Tomorrow, we check out early and head back to Saigon, where we'll apply for his passport and go to the Cho Ray Hospital for his US medical evaluation. So, a long day of traveling and paperwork ahead of us.

It was so nice to read so many comments today (in between the power going on and off here).

I adopted a chipmunk

First off, sorry for being out of touch yesterday and today. It was...intense.

Things are going well and getting better all the time. Today, we got some smiles and laughs out of Loc, and he'll now run to my open arms and jump into them.

Other highlights of today: his first ice cream cone, and listening in on a SKYPE call with Grandma and Grandad. He waved at them on the Webcam (only one way -- we don't have one, so they could only hear us.) My heart just overflowed to see him smiling at his new grandparents.

But yesterday was really tough on the little guy. The van got here around 10 with the nannies and the babies, and then Loc's nanny, Dao, and I went to our room and she tried to show me some basics of taking care of him (gestures only since we don't share a language). I also got an "instruction manual," with his feeding times and what he likes to eat.

He was very distressed and unhappy all day. At around 2, we went downtown for the Giving & Receiving ceremony. It was brief, thankfully, because the government office building has no AC, and we were on the third floor. None of the kids cried; all of the parents did. We were blubbering as the provincial official said her official words and read our adoption decrees. I think I was "People's Decision Number 1891."

We all posed for photos afterwards with the statue of Uncle Ho that dominated the room. Then it was back here for the nannies to say goodbye. Very emotional, very sad. The women clearly love these children.

Loc spent the rest of the day very distressed and alternating between whimpering and crying. We got him walking around the grounds of the hotel, and that seemed to both calm him and get him tired. He wouldn't eat dinner, however, but finally conked out at 7. So did we -- it was an exhausting day. He woke up a little later with a full-blown meltdown due to some bug bites itching him. The kids are all covered with bug bites -- big holes in the screens at the orphanage. We got him calmed down and back to sleep.

He woke right on schedule at midnight for his bottle, and let me take him out of his crib and give it to him with no fuss, then went right back to sleep till 7 this morning.

This morning was a little tough. He woke up disoriented and unhappy, but we did manage to get some breakfast (fish congee and fruit) into him, although he hoarded the fruit in his cheeks.

Then, like a switch turning on, later this morning he started warming to us. We found out he's ticklish, and had a great time sitting at the beach with him. Big news: He has a TON of teeth. I hadn't seen them because he hadn't smiled or made a sound since we got him, but when he was cackling this morning, there they were, a whole set of choppers.

Lunch was a challenge again. I fed him fried rice, which he seemed to be scarfing down, but when I went to change him an hour and a half later, he almost choked. He had stored it all in his cheeks. Likewise a fruit snack later today -- it was all in his cheeks.

So, we've got an institutional care issue to deal with. He's hoarding food in his cheeks, which is not uncommon for kids from orphanages. It's a coping mechanism of getting food when it's available because of insecurity about when there will be more. It breaks my heart to see him do this. He's like a little chimpmunk.

We fed him slower at dinner and tried to make sure he actually swallowed something, and it looks like he did. We'll work through this; he'll learn there will be plenty of food around. Just wait till he comes to his first Smith Family get-together. Any anxiety about running out of food will be gone with the wind.

So, it's been an emotional 24 or so hours. The G&R really was something -- to have that official ceremony, where I signed my name in "the big book" felt so good after all this waiting. And the hand-off with the nannies -- I can't describe how heart-breaking it was. I have to remind myself that right now, this is still a loss for Loc. He's starting to maybe figure out what he's gained, but yesterday was not a happy day for him.

He really is doing so much better today. He loves to be picked up and held, which is great. I'm showering him with sniffs and kisses and holding him close. I think we're making some progress.

He's such a cute little thing, my chipmunk boy.

More Photos and Rotating Black Outs

Because of the fuel crisis there are rotating black outs in Vietnam. As you might image, this causes havoc with internet connects. So for the past two days the uploading of photos has gone very, very slowly - if at all.

But if you'd like to see some more photos, there are some additional ones on Flickr tagged with loc. As requested, I'm trying to get one of myself up as well.

Thanks for all the comments keep them coming.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Countdown to G&R

It's 9:15 a.m. in Vietnam, and the van will be here at 11 with the nannies and the babies. They'll spend a little time with us showing us how to take care of our new children. This is especially important for the little babies who are on formula that no one knows the name of yet, but I've been assured that Loc will eat "everything." I'm hoping his nanny will get me up-to-speed on bedtime and naptime as well as the best ways to comfort him. Yesterday, she was patting his leg, and that seemed to help.

Thao will take the nannies to lunch here at the hotel while we get the kids in their fancy duds for the Giving & Receiving Ceremony. Then we all pile in the van and go down the street to the government office. The G&R is at 2. Then it's back to the hotel for the nannies to say good-bye to the kids. They have taken such great care of our little ones. It's going to be an emotional afternoon.

I want to thank everyone who has commented on the blog -- we love reading your comments and having contact with our friends and family back home. I realized, however, that some of you were having trouble commenting, so I went in and changed the settings to make it easier. So keep the comments coming!

We'll try to post G&R photos this evening (tomorrow morning for you guys).

The Calm Before the Storm


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
When we arrived today we were called into the room to see Loc sound asleep. He looked so peaceful.

Loc's Buddies


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
The older kids are not shy in front of the camera, especially when they can instantly see the results.

Loc Gets a Little Help From His Friends


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Everyone tries to help Loc feel better resulting in too much noise, toys, taking of toys and older kids to deal with.

Bonnie and Loc Share


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Bonnie help Loc gather his "fruit" chews (candy). But Loc puts them into the bag with great dexterity!

Under the sea

We're just back from dinner. Holy smokes, it was amazing. We went to a seafood restaurant, Cay Bang (omitting the diacritical marks, sorry), hanging over the Pacific in Phan Thiet. All 10 of us, with Thao ordering dish after dish of things that moments before hitting our table had been swimming in open-air tanks in the back of the restaurant.

We're talking steamed shrimp, grilled squid, steamed crabs with tamarind, snails, and oysters, plus fried rice and sauteed water spinach, and round after round of beer. The tab was $18 per person. And we couldn't eat all the food they brought.

A couple things I loved: the salt/pepper/lime juice dip for the shrimp, and the custom of bringing, after the shrimp and crabs, large bowls of lukewarm aromatic tea (with the loose tea still in it) and lemon for you to dunk your hands in after cracking all those shells. Why hasn't Southern Maryland figured this out? My hands smell like I've spent the afternoon at Bath & Bodyworks, not like I've been working in a Crisfield plant.

On the way to the restaurant, we stopped at some local sites -- temple ruins, a working Buddhist temple, and the famous Phan Thiet sand dunes, which Ray says compare with the dunes of northern Indiana, only a different type of sand.

So, tomorrow at 11 a.m. our lives change forever. I hope all three of us are ready. Tomorrow's going to be a busy day, but I hope to post at least something brief to document how it went.

The last few days have been the most amazing of my life. Every moment has been an adventure. But tomorrow is when the real fun starts.

A few minutes after Bonnie meets Loc


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
This is just after Loc meets Bonnie for the first time. His favorite toys are held close. These were sent over a few months ago. A stuffed yellow taxi and a purple dog that both make noises when squeezed.

Bonnie meets Loc


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
We arrrived and walked into Loc's room. His caregiver brings Loc over to meet Bonnie. Everyone was anxious.

Just above Bonnie you see his bed, without his pillow.

Challenging day

Today's visit was a little different. When we got there, Loc was sound asleep in his crib, having his nap. Usually he sleeps till 1:30, but that's when we were leaving, so the nanny woke him up for us. I wasn't so sure this was a good idea, but language barrier and all....

So, I had one cranky, unhappy baby on my hands. I couldn't hold him today -- I tried, but he screamed and fought me off. He was very possessive with his toys that the other kids kept trying to take from him or shake in front of him. Overstimulation overload. He just fretted and whimpered and cried for the first hour of our visit.

I sat by him on the floor for most of the time and talked quietly to him or to Ray and some of the other parents who came in and out, just to get him used to my voice. After a while, he was still fussy, but he risked making eye contact with me.

The last 15 minutes we were there, he sat on a bench with Ray and the nanny and let Ray shake his hand and give him goldfish crackers. In fact, Ray entertained the other kids with his floppy-arm handshake and had them in gales of laughter, practically all jumping on him for more. Loc started imitating the other kids and asking for a handshake, and I swear I saw a smile and almost a laugh in there somewhere.

So, not the most gratifying day, but that'll all come. A few things I learned today: NEVER wake him early from a nap, and his fine motor skills look pretty darn good. The nanny gave him a small packet of fruit gel snacks, and he kept taking them out of the packet (a silvery envelope) and putting them back in. Very good coordination.

Other highlights: We went to a supermarket today to stock up on Loc supplies and some candy for the kids, since today was our last visit to the orphanage. We're all madly in love with the older kids who can't be adopted. We overbought on candy and snacks, I'm sure, but we couldn't help ourselves.

Tomorrow is Gotcha Day. The nannys and the babies arrive at 11, and the G&R is at 2. Or is it 3? I've got to start writing this stuff down. I'm just following the herd at this point. We travel back to Saigon on Thursday to do the passport application and the medical evaluation. We get that stuff back on Friday, and fly up to Hanoi either Saturday or Sunday.

All subject to change, of course. But that looks like the schedule so far.

We'll have access to one of the parents' laptops tonight, so we'll upload some photos later on. This evening's agenda, our last "free night," is sight-seeing in Phan Thiet and a seafood dinner, followed by drinks and a little party in one couple's room.

Tomorrow's going to be a busy day, and a big, big day for us. I officially adopt Loc tomorrow. After that, he's mine in the eyes of the Vietnamese government.

I just hope he's had his nap.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Off to the Orphanage

We're off to the orphanage again in about 45 minutes. It takes about an hour and a half to get there, or at least it took that long to get back from there yesterday, over some pretty rough roads. We might take a more direct route today.

The trip to Phan Thiet from the orphanage yesterday was pretty amazing. We went through rice paddies and dragonfruit (my new obsession, it is so freaking yummy) fields, and some salt flats. We saw people working the fields in their conical hats, leading cows around, and we saw some water buffalo rolling in the mud. We went through small towns where every house has a little storefront selling something in it. The architecture is so different. We'll post some photos later -- we've taken about 500, but we won't subject you to them all.

The hotel is amazing. A gorgeous resort right on the ocean in Phan Thiet, the fish sauce capital of Asia. Which means at certain times of the day, the fish sauce scent wafts over you as you lay in a hammock or by the pool, and it's, um, perhaps not that appetizing to our Western palates.

The food here is incredible. I may never eat shrimp again after I come home, because it's not going to compare. Yesterday, one of the new moms and I shared a steamed crab in a ginger/soy sauce. It was kind of like a stone crab -- I'm not sure of the species. Not as sweet as our blue crabs, but just delicious.

We switched rooms yesterday from the main hotel to one of the villas, which is a four-room building with a large common room. We're on the ground floor, so we have a little patio and then lush green grass in front of us all the way to the ocean. Lots of room for Loc to run around when we get him. There's a playground nearby too, although it's a bit close to the archery range for my tastes. The room is a little dark -- all teak -- and a little more humid, with its stone and wood open-air shower, than in the main hotel, but it has oodles of charm. And I think the layout is better for Loc, with all that room to run around in instead of a hotel hallway. I can't wait to get him here and let him try the pool and the beach.

At the visit yesterday, we got to talk with Mrs. Thu, the orphanage director, about how Loc came to be at the orphanage. We only got a few more details, but every bit is so valuable to us to be able to tell him later. Two of the families we're with were given photos of their children's birth mothers yesterday, an incredible gift from Mrs. Thu.

Loc's nanny, Phuong, seems to take really good care of him and is so generous with helping me with him. She assures me he sleeps through the night and will go right to sleep the minute I put him down. Okay, lady, I'm going to hold you to that one! Ha ha.

Loc Snacks with Friends


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
After his nap Loc sat on the picnic bench with several friends. One had picked some fruit and was sharing the treats with everyone. A girl peeled one for him.

Note that the yellow toy is still with him.

Naptime for Loc


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
Shortly after we arrived Bonnie took Loc outside. It did not take long for naptime to start.

Later, Loc Shares Cookie


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
After a 45 minute nap in Bonnie's arms, Loc started to share the Teddy Graham cookies we brought. Bonnie said they tasted great!

Loc Meets Bonnie


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Originally uploaded by razweekly
This is what Bonnie was talking about in the previous blog post about the first few minutes. Check the "after" photo next (above).

Meeting Loc

We went to the orphanage this morning, about a three and a half hour drive, and the last 30 minutes are a blur to me, I was so nervous. We took a ton of photos from the windows of the car on the way out, which I hope to post later, because it was an amazing trip. Saigon gave way to rural Vietnam, which was at once beautiful and shockingly poor.

We got to the orphanage, and older kids rushed out to greet us. Then, before I could take a breath, we were ushered into one room with another couple to see our kids. Theirs, a 4-month-old, was in her bouncy seat. And there, standing across the room, was Loc.

He's smaller than I imagined, but there was no mistaking him.

His nanny brought him over to us, and he immediately started fretting and getting anxious. She tried to sit him on my lap, and that's when the real waterworks started. He was so afraid of me, he was trembling like a leaf. He kept pushing at me, trying to get away. So, we sat for a while on the floor and talked to him quietly while the nanny held him. We got out some bubbles and he chased them, and eventually he let me feed him a piece of Oreo.

After a while, he was getting antsy about being cooped up in the hot room -- he kept running over to the door -- so the nanny gestured to me to try to take him outside. She put him in my arms, and this time he didn't protest. "He loves to be outside," Thao translated for me, and I thought, good -- he's going to get along with his cousin Renee just great.

I walked around the orphanage courtyard with him for a few minutes, and he wasn't protesting, and then he started blinking really slowly, so I shifted him so his head was resting on my chest, and he went right to sleep.

I held him for 45 minutes while he slept (he's a little furnace and it was HOT, so my shirt was soaked to the skin by the time he woke up). He was a little disoriented when he woke up (who the heck is holding me?) and started fretting again, so I put him down and let him run around.

Then a little while later, he let me pick him up again, and Ray fed him little Teddy Grahams, which he liked. And then, and this is where I really almost lost it, he started feeding cookies to me. Ray would give him one, and he would reach up and put it right in my mouth.

We were there two and a half hours, and while I didn't get a smile out of him, he seemed to get more and more used to us. We go back tomorrow for another visit, and then we hope to have the G&R on Wednesday, at which time we'll get him full-time. I was ready to take him home today, of course, but maybe another visit isn't such a bad idea. He really needs time to warm up to us.

The orphanage was about what I expected, except for the decorations on the walls, which included a giant Santa Claus and a wooden carving of Betty Boop straddling a beer bottle. WTF?

There are a lot of kids there -- a bunch of babies, and a lot of older kids, including a wonderful 17-year-old boy who speaks good English and did some interpreting for me. What does Loc like to eat?, I asked. "Candy." What does he like to do? "He likes to watch TV."

Well, he'll have no problem becoming an American.

The caregiver to kid ratio is really good there, and the place is clean if sparse. No, there aren't any mattresses in the cribs. Yes, it's pretty chaotic -- some of the kids are pretty rowdy -- but they all seem to get along and take care of each other. One girl held Loc a lot while I wasn't holding him. They've had some problems with only having electricity every other day, so the kids all have prickly heat. Loc's back and arms are covered in spots, but that'll clear up when he gets into some AC.

Otherwise, he looks pretty healthy, and he's certainly getting around a lot. He carries the two stuffed toys I sent him and guards them with his life. He knows they belong to him.

We're at the very swank Novotel resort in Phan Thiet right now and can't upload photos from their Internet center, but I'll upload some tomorrow night when I can borrow one of the other parents' computers.

It was such an emotional day. I think everyone was crying at the orphanage. The other three families' kids look great as well. It was tough to leave this afternoon.

So, round two tomorrow. Let's see if Loc recognizes us and if we can coax a smile out of him. But we're off to a good start. He's wonderful. We couldn't be happier.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

We're here!

Whew, has it been a long day.

We got to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) around 11:30 a.m. local time. Thao met us at the airport, and we took a van in. It's hard to describe the van trip, but I hope on the way out we'll shoot some film of it to share. Imagine you're in a minivan with other cars in heavy traffic, and there are people on scooters all around you, and by all around you I mean you look out the window and there's a family of three on a scooter inches from your window, and every few minutes you hit a new intersection, and scooters and cars cut in front of you to make left-hand turns or merge into your lane from the right. Hundreds of them.

Somehow it all works, but sometimes there are literally inches to spare. And there are also people on bikes in this fray. Tonight, we saw tossed in the mix of this crazy traffic a guy on a bike transporting an entire six-piece set of wicker furniture.

Oh, and everyone's got their hands on the horn full-time. It's not NYC horn-blowing, however. It's somehow gentle and polite.

The hotel is gorgeous. We're on the 17th floor, and there's a lounge on the 18th where we can have drinks and snacks till midnight. The service is fantastic -- I've written four paragraphs and have been asked three times if there's anything anyone can get me.

After we rested up and took much-needed showers, we took a walk around the hotel area. Yes, we crossed streets in Saigon by ourselves, which wasn't as bad as I feared. And while the humidity here is pretty brutal, it's not that much worse than DC in August.

Thao took us out to buy strollers, and then we went to dinner. The stroller shopping was a disappointment -- we got a really flimsy umbrella stroller for more than we would have paid for one in the US, making me irritated that we were advised to buy one here instead of bringing one. Oh well.

But dinner was amazing. The card is back in the room so I don't have the name of the restaurant, but if you've seen Tony Bourdain's or Andrew Zimmer's episodes on Vietnam, you've seen it featured. It's this huge open-air restaurant with essentially "streets" lining the perimeter featuring the best "street food" vendors in the city. You assemble your meal from the various chefs, who all specialize in one or two items. We had spring rolls, summer rolls, shrimp 'n pork crepes, steamed shrimp, a spicy cucumber/chicken/pork salad on rice crackers, and grilled squid. The shrimp (head-on of course) were amazing -- nothing like the farm-raised, faintly bleached-tasting ones you get at home. You dip them in a mixture of coasre salt and pepper doused with lime juice. We ate tons, had a couple rounds of beers, and it totalled less than $10 a piece.

Now we're crashing hard. Despite doing really well today energy-wise, the jet lag is catching up. And tomorrow's going to be a long day as well. Oh, with one highlight: We meet Loc.

We still don't have a Giving & Receiving Ceremony date, which is a bit nerve-wracking at this point. It won't be Monday, maybe Tuesday, maybe Wednesday. So, we'll leave the hotel tomorrow at 8, and be driven three and a half hours to the orphanage. We'll hang out with Loc for a while, then go another hour and a half to the hotel. If the G&R is not until Wednesday, we probably will go back to the orphanage on Monday for another visit, and then not get Loc until Tuesday. We just have to stay flexible and go with the flow right now. Nothing to worry about, but of course we wish things were more definitive.

It's 8:30 p.m. here now, and I've got to get some sleep so I'm in the best possible shape tomorrow to meet the little guy. It's going to be a big day.

Friday, July 18, 2008

In Taiwan

The longest leg of the flight is over, and it's 6:30 a.m. in Taipei.

The plane out of Dulles was almost two hours late, but we got bulkhead seats and still had a long layover in San Francisco. We had dinner with Red and Christy (sorry if we're spelling your name wrong!) and hung out for a while with them in the terminal. It was a long day, however -- midnight our time while we were having dinner.

Then came the long wait in the international terminal before finally leaving the US at 1:40 a.m. West Coast time. The flight on EVA was great. Bulkhead seats again -- jackpot -- and then after dinner and a couple Tylenol PM's, it was off to dreamland. There was so much food on the EVA flight that we've barely dug into the Big Bag o' Snacks. The flight was over 12 hours, but we both got a lot of sleep and are feeling good, awake, rested here in Taipei.

The airport is beautiful, with art displays and an orchid garden. But already we're feeling the stickiness in the air. We've got about 2 and a half hours before we head on to Saigon.

At some point over the Pacific, I had an OMG-Am-I-Really-Doing-This? moment. It still doesn't seem real. Parts of it feel like we're in an episode of "The Amazing Race," with all this time running from one airport terminal to the next.

The flight to Saigon is about 3 and a half hours. Then the adventure really begins.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Leaving on a jet plane

I'm out of control. In the last half-hour, I've thrown a dozen things in the suitcase that I probably don't need. Shout wipes, dental floss, Dove cleansing pads, Tylenol PM (okay, maybe that will come in handy at 6 tomorrow morning when I'm in the air over the Pacific and want to sleep).

Last-minute task: Photocopying! Ray never signed his passport, rendering all the copies we've made to give over at various government offices useless. So, we'll get that done and then everything will go in the special paperwork envelope I should probably be wearing on my person.

I am hopeless as well as out of control; I logged on to work email this morning and sent a few last-minute messages. Must. Disengage. Now. Hey, it's more difficult than I thought. Aside from my surgeries, I've worked full-time without interruption since 1985. It's how we do.

I read an article on Adoptivefamilies.com this morning about documenting your trip with photos and video. Lots of good tips, but now I feel totally inadequate because I haven't prepared a "shot list" ahead of time. That'll give us something to plan on the plane ride.

I wonder what Loc's up to today. He has no idea what's about to happen to him.

Neither does his new mom, for that matter.

Much, much more to come...maybe from Taipei, and then from Saigon.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

'Twas the night before departure

We leave tomorrow. It still doesn't seem real. This time tomorrow night, we'll be landing in San Francisco and starting a long layover before the flight to Taipei.

What a long day. I didn't get home from work until 9. I still have a lot of packing to do. Right now, everything's in one incredibly heavy suitcase. Tomorrow morning, we get out the luggage scale and start redistributing. I think we'll have one entire duffel bag o' snacks. Ray's still looking for a tripod or stand for his camera and has to get his prescriptions filled, and I've got to pull a few more things together. Extra contact lenses, headphones, cash, hairbrushes. Plus a few more emails to send.

My co-workers threw me a shower today. Make-your-own-sundae bar and cake -- what could be better? I got a stuffed Horton and some Dr. Seuss books, and a very generous donation for the orphanage. When I was asked about a shower, I said that instead of a gift, I'd be honored if my colleagues would help the Ham Tan orphanage provide for the children who won't be joining families. Boy, did they respond. They really are a wonderful, caring group of people, and I'm fortunate to work with them. I'm looking forward to posting photos from the orphanage so that they can see some of the kids who will benefit from their kindness.

It's going to be weird, being off from work for a while. I keep wondering if I'll think about what's going on, or if I'll be so absorbed that it'll be a distant memory by Saturday.

It's after 11, and I still have to take out the trash and a make a list of all the things I need to get together tomorrow. And then hit the hay, my last chance to sleep in a bed for a couple of days. Ugh, the flight is going to be so long. But I'm almost at my destination.

Monday, July 14, 2008

Loc's Room One


Loc's Room
Originally uploaded by razweekly
This is Loc's room with Rain Forest theme on the bed spread and all around. One stuffed penguin sits atop a tricycle and more are on the bed. Note the rocking chair.

Loc's Room


Loc's Room
Originally uploaded by razweekly
This is Loc's dresser and friend corner.

Loc's Play Corner


Loc's Room
Originally uploaded by razweekly
This is Loc's bookshelf and play corner.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

I hate packing

I hate packing. I just hate it. My mind seems to go in 12 directions as I try to think through the whole mix 'n match wardrobe thing. Is it okay to bring the orange Coolmax shirt, since it will go with the slacks and the shorts but not the baby blue "skort"?

I wish they had "Garanimals" for adults.

And then the luggage sizes and limits, most of which have to be converted from the cm's on the airline web sites to inches -- it makes my head hurt. We've worked out a whole scheme that relies on our eating no less than 6 pounds of snack food before we take the in-country flight so that our big piece of luggage meets Vietnam Air requirements.

We got a little way-laid in the trip prep today, due to my garbage disposal giving up the ghost last night and causing the dishwasher to drain through the kitchen floor into the basement. We are the third of the four couples on our trip to have a plumbing issue days before departure.

Luckily, my partner is a do-it-yourselfer, and four trips to The Home Depot later, I have a brand-new disposal with the fierce brand name of "The Badger." Still, we could have used those six hours to pack or spend our Sunday in a last-minute kid-free adventure.

Yesterday was far more productive. The family came up and did a massive job of preparing the house. Grass got cut, Loc's room got set up, rooms are baby-proofed and cleared out. Things are looking good, especially his room, which is so cute. My family is incredible -- everyone pitched in and worked so hard yesterday.

I should be getting ready for work tomorrow, but right now I just want to chill with a Wailua (wheat beer brewed with passion fruit from Hawaii!) and not think about the plane ride. Or what I might be forgetting to pack.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Aww.

To-Do List From Hell

Plane tickets have been purchased. Visas are ready today. That's two things checked off a list of a gazillion.

Right now I'm obsessing about shoes. I am determined to take only one pair with me (and some flip-flops), one of those moderately fugly pairs of waterproof, lightweight hiking/sports shoes. They won't look too god-awful with my nice outfit for the official business, and they'll be better than taking sneakers. But this quest could consume the entire day, as I've already struck out at REI and Dick's.

Then there's all the other things to do today. Get a haircut, get the prescriptions filled, buy the mattress and boxsprings, and work on the house, which has its own subset of to-do items. Luckily, my family is coming up this weekend to pitch in. There are hundreds of little details -- this morning, I remembered I need to photocopy our passports (which are waiting to be picked up at the Vietnamese Embassy downtown). What else am I forgetting? And at some point this weekend, I'll probably need to go to the office. That to-do list almost reduces me to tears.

But I did sleep in today, despite all the stuff I have to do. I'm down to my last three opportunities to sleep in for quite some time.

The plane ride is really concerning me. We couldn't get "deluxe" for the trip over, so we'll be spending the trans-Pacific flight cramped in coach. Yes, the airline, EVA, is supposed to be wonderful, but I've got some long gams. And the layovers are looooooong. Thursday is going to be one long-ass day. Leave Dulles at 5:30, arrive in San Fran at 8 (11 p.m. our time), then leave San Fran at almost 2 a.m. local time, meaning almost 12 full hours of travel/layovers before we even leave the USA. Then another long layover in Taiwan before we get to HCMC.

I keep thinking of Lewis Black's bit on flying to New Zealand, where he says, "If you ever decide to fly to New Zealand...first take out a gun and shoot yourself in the head."

But layovers sound longer than they ever really are. The time will fly by! Right?

I'm on the fence about the long layovers on the way back. My hope is that at each one I will have enough energy to run Loc around the airport like I'm a bull and he's in Pamplona, to completely tire him out so that he sleeps on the next flight. But I wouldn't place any bets on that happening. The inverse will probably be true. To anyone on the three return flights, I apologize in advance.

Okay, it's 10:30 and I'm way behind schedule. Time to mark some things off the list.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Finally.

I'm sitting here waiting for the travel agent to call me back and trying to get my head together from the last few days.

We got our final approval to go get Loc.

It looks like we leave on July 17. YES, NEXT WEEK.

It's all happening so quickly -- more quickly than our agency predicted -- but I'm not complaining. So, we have a week to get visas, our second round of shots, our plane tickets, tie up loose ends at work, cut the grass, buy a stroller, pack, etc. etc. We're both out of our minds right now.

I got "The Call" while I was working at my company's annual convention. In fact, I was juggling a gazillion things at once, including trying to troubleshoot a snafu for a press conference that was starting in 15 minutes, when my agency director called and said, "Congratulations!"

Since then, it's been a whirlwind (could have used this weekend at home instead of being out of town, grumble, grumble), and today we got the travel date confirmed, and now I am really freaking out. How will I get everything done in time?

We had our travel meeting today with the other three couples who will be traveling with us. We're all getting along splendidly so far. They're getting tiny babies, so Loc will be the old man of the group. He plays with the babies at the orphanage, so I hope it'll help him to have some familiar faces around for the time we're there, and that we can all stay in touch as the kids grow up.

We'll first see Loc on July 20 for a couple hours, then we'll get him for good on the 21st. After that, we'll just be filing paperwork and hanging out, getting to know each other, until his passport is ready. We'll be in Vietnam about two and a half weeks, probably coming back August 3.

I can't believe it, but it's sinking in -- after all this waiting, it's almost time to go get him!